Ok, I'll be replacing that, along with all u-joint bearings, might as well since they're all off the machine. Also, that loose shifter problem that these things have, is that in the tranny or on the linkages? I'd like to fix that right away too.

 

Usually it's a shift box problem. Parts wear out and that makes shifting hard. Sometimes you can adjust the linkage ends and make shifting easier for awhile. Parts are starting to become nla on the older models,but the main wear items are still available. Place the shift lever in neutral,loosen the linkage ends lock nuts at the shift box levers. Remove the 10mm nuts holding the linkage ends to the shift levers and lift the linkage arms up and away from the shift box. You can then push forward and backward a little on the lever and see if you have a lot of play. Most of them did after years worth of wear.Adjust the linkage ends to where they dropped straight into the slide holes with NO pressure on the slides. Tighten the linkage end lock nuts and replace the 10 mm nuts. That should give you a positive forward and reverse and low range without gear grinding.

 

Alright, it's been a while since I worked on it but I was finally able to put everything back together and what do ya know, same friggin thing! Despite the fact I was really ticked off, I looked real good at everything while it was jacked up, idling, and in 2wd high. There is more of a hesitation than a wobble, and it only occurs on the right rear side. That explains the wobble, as one side hesitated and one side didn't, from what I can visually tell. That nasty clacking noise I thought was coming from the trans case, just the secondary clutch slamming shut as it slows down when that hesitation occurs (another thing that ticked me off, if I would have looked at that first I wouldn't have torn the whole thing apart!). The drive shaft does not appear to be bent either. New u-joint bearings completely on that side (didn't do the other side as there was nothing wrong with them), new outer wheel hub bearings. What else could cause this???

 

Whether it solves the hesitation,wobbling or not,the secondary clutch shouldn't be"slamming shut" as the rpms decrease and the atv slows down. Should be a smooth transitioning between the front and secondary clutches as rpms change. If you haven't torn into the secondary clutch,might be the time to do so. Check for worn,ground down ramp buttons, stationary ramp(helix) that could possibly be ground down also if the buttons are worn down to nothing,plus the belt itself.If more than 1.5 inch of play in the middle of the belt,it needs to be replaced.https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/po...-sportsman-500 The 3211048 belt shown has been changed to 3211077 if the belt needs replacement. Pics shown are from some clutches that have been neglected.

 

Ok I'll look into the clutch problem. Any Idea on what could cause this hesitation on just one side?

 

Something you may or may not have over looked is make sure the the hub splines and drive shaft spines are good and tight.I'd still go in to the clutch and repair what's needed. Not a fan of doing just one side on u-joints even though you say the other side is tight.Plus one other thing that can matter on these older models is to have the drive shafts "clocked together" that is making sure both yokes at the gear case are either facing up or sideways together. Doesn't matter which. That can make a difference on balance.

 

Oldpol, did you ever get the wobble fixed? I really need to know the outcome of this as I'm have the same issue you described.
Thanks

 

Not yet, but I believe I know the source of the problem. I think somehow a driveshaft is bent, I can't prove it, but today actually I'm going to get the necessary parts to convert from U-Joints to CV axles. I will let you know if it solves the problem.

 

For sure post the brand and results of any conversion kit that would swap these around to cv joints.. Aftermarket u-joint drive shafts have become cheaper,but still no one has a conversion shaft kit.This would help people that have had to deal with these older shafts for years.

 

So I ran out of gumption today, but I got the necessary parts to do the swap, which are the axles (obviously) and the hub/bearing carriers. Now I don't know if the upper A-arms are the same from U-joint models to CV models, but the inner bracket for it rubs on the CV boot, I did a lot of grinding to get one side to fit, tomorrow I will do the other side. I'm wishing now I bought the brackets and A-arms, but oh well. If you like a clean installation, I would recommend getting those parts, as mine is kinda a hack job. Hopefully tomorrow I'll find out if this solves the problem. I'm hoping and praying it does!!