I have a blown strut, oils leaking out and piston wiggles in casing. The after market ones on ebay are gas vs the stock oil - wondering how gas will ride vs the stock oil. Second thing is I hate the thought of paying 100+ buck a piece for the stockers and didnt want to buy the no-names on ebay so I went on Monroe's web site and found all the spec's and matched them up to stock, I found some sensa tracs with the exact same dimensions as stockers but again they are gas. Has anyone else tried this and is there anything in particular I should worry about and you have any thoughts as to what I'm attempting? Thanks guys for any input on the subject.

 

the big question i would have, would there be a differnce in say mud/water or in cold weather. i think gad would be a better ride but there again ive never done it. can you find any mcfearson(or however spell it) struts out of say a wrecked bike some where? just a thoguth.

 

My first thoughts were getting a used one but that just would bug the crap out of me worrying when the other one would blow. -- As for the weather, gas is more stable, a lot of people are using gas in their bike tires because there is little to no variance from cold to hot as far as the psi factor. The ride is my concern, not durability as most hipo after market motorcycle,snowmobile and off road 4x4 truck shocks are gas charged. Also the ones on ebay are all gas, but I don't know anyone whose tried gas on a such a light vehicle and am wondering about the valving and if they will be to stiff. So thats why I want some reader input.

 

Bump--Come on guys WE ALL ALWAYS have something to say about anything, one of you'all got to have some thought on this.

 

Gas vs Oil, not specific to ATV's but shocks in general. If nothing else might be good for discussion.
In every vehicle I have upgraded to Gas they gave me a slightly firmer ride.
Typically the valving was such that the Short rythym bumps, read washboards were very similar to a regular oil shock.
When it came to bigger bumps they seemed to be a bit stiffer, but also they didn't Soften as you worked the shocks.
Working a Shock a lot especially the long strokes, Heats the oils as they pass back and forth through the valving and then they thin and can even develop cavitation making minute bubbles in the oil until the shock fails. The Cartridge pressure changes during this time which leads to the leaking problem over life.

Gas "Charged" alleviates that by keeping the cartridge pressurized at a consistent level, thus preventing cavitation in the shock and allowing it to continue to function through a larger range of conditions. They tend to last longer in a "Normal" driving condition and provide a more consistent ride from new to failure.

Any .02 for the discussion.

 

The Works Perf struts are gas chraged, you could get Kimpex Gold pro too.
I seen some used OEM struts on ebay yesterday.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/it...ZpolarisQ20700QQ_pgnZ9
sp700 parts on ebay motors

Jim

http://www.mfgsupply.com/ATVSu...mv_session_id=zWLjDK22 -Kimpex Gold struts

Raider Gas Strut

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/...039&leafCatId=&mmyId=


http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/...682&leafCatId=&mmyId=

Works Front Struts

 

the Gas charged (Nitrogen) struts are MUCH better.

http://www.gen3usa.com/forums/...pic.php?p=37542#37542

Here's an email from Works directly regarding my inquiring for these struts:

As with most shock absorbers and struts the air (or nitrogen) space is maybe about 10% the other 90% is oil. Yes a nitrogen shock is normally going to be about 90% full of oil regardless of brand name. These struts use the DeCarbon type principle of a floating piston (aside from the regular shock piston at the end of the shock shaft) to separate the air space from the oil with the air space at the far end of the shock or strut.

Since the air volume in the struts is fairly small it becomes hard to check pressure without losing a few pounds. It is ok to use air (clean dry air) in these struts at these low pressures though we like to use nitrogen ourselves. If you have the strut removed and without the spring push it down slowly against a bathroom scale for maybe first inch of travel. Note the typical reading of the scale, now let the strut slowly extend against the scale and note that reading (which will be less caused by seal friction etc).
Take the average of the two readings (half way between) multiply by 2 and you have the pressure in the strut. (the area of a 3/4 inch shaft is about 1 / 2 1/4 square inches but the strut is a little compressed so I don't multiply by 2 1/4 I just use 2 )

 

I really appreciate the input guys. When it comes to wear items used stuff just don't sit well with me except in emergency situations. As soon as you say Polaris or any toys name the $$$ factor goes sky high which bites thats why I got online and looked at Monroe's spec. page and found a set with identical dimensions, then I went to the local NAPA and without telling them what I found had them match it up so I wouldn't influence what they managed to match up to the stocker that I brought in - They came up with the same # strut as I and it was cheaper then any I or the links above were. For the Monroe Sensa Trac Gas it's $44ea. so I ordered a pair and should be in Tues. of next week. I am going to try them and if they work at least as well or better then the stock struts i will be posting the #'s for them and the quality of the ride. PLEASE KEEP ADDING YOUR EXPERIENCE & THOUGHTS with the gas vs oil.

 

gas shocks will be better in all aspects. it would be good if these work out for ya so yep let us know.