In the process of installing the hub coil over the coil mount surface, the plastic housing that keeps the coil wires intact cracked rendering the new $80 coil junk. The outer rim of the mount surface has a slight lip around it, I'm not sure if this is by design or from wear. Either way I would like to figure out how to slip the coil over this lip & onto the mount surface before I drop another $80. The manual doesn't provide any detailed instructions to accomplish this. Any ideas?

 

Strut casting should be smooth and not beveled up enough to prevent new coil assy from just slipping on!! This is where a lot of do it yourselfers have problems especially if replacing damaged awd coil and coil sleeve. The inner casting provides the second point of contact for the armature plate to magnetize to. IF damaged severely,then strut assy may need replacing. You may be able to debur area to where coil will slip on with out DAMAGING FACE OF LIP,then if you have the the manual it tells you about the silicone around coil sleeve and alignment to coil. This is very critical. Should be about .001 clearance or exactly even between outer sleeve face and INNER face of strut assy that is lipped out.Usual cause is years of wear of armature plate against sleeve and inner casting lip that causes lip to bevel out,very easy to break a new coil assy if not slightly debured down! I know because i've done it once in the past,BUT learned very quickly. Hope this helps opt

 

Thanks for the advice, opt, I really appreciate it! I filed the lip off & the new coil slips right on. Now I have a problem with the seal sleeve. Manual says to press it on, I attempted a 'dry run' without silicone or the coil in place, and the sleeve will not simply press on by hand. I am afraid to tap on it w/ a block & hammer as it may damage the coil again. The sleeve is new and the mounting surface is smooth. Should the sleeve be that tight or is there a special technique to slip it on w/ out damaging the coil?

 

hey brewerfan when i got the scram i could not get the left front wheel to spin,mesured between the inner and outer poles and the clearance was 7 thousands of an inch. seven times more gap than spec.being an installation error.and fiquring trying to remove it after some idjet aready did a nice silicone job on it, to reinstall will no doubt ruin the sleeve+ coil,i wrapped 7 layers of a rag(7times the gap=7 layers of rag) around a 3 pound sledge and lightly tapped evenly and i actually closed the gap to 0 figuring its bound to open up alittle which it has not in years+ no burrs+you can use a regular hammer......

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: brewersfan

Thanks for the advice, opt, I really appreciate it! I filed the lip off & the new coil slips right on. Now I have a problem with the seal sleeve. Manual says to press it on, I attempted a 'dry run' without silicone or the coil in place, and the sleeve will not simply press on by hand. I am afraid to tap on it w/ a block & hammer as it may damage the coil again. The sleeve is new and the mounting surface is smooth. Should the sleeve be that tight or is there a special technique to slip it on w/ out damaging the coil?</end quote></div>

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Silicone the sleeve,lightly center on strut,use a flat WOOD block (1x4) and tap on,WHILE checking gap when close to being flush,if outer sleeve goes past inner pole(strut casting) then will have to peck out at rear to realign,can damage sleeve where hub seal fits! Easier to check with straight edge as you go,be sure to tap ALL around sleeve so it will be even with about .001 clearance at several points using straight edge! To be honest with you and I dont recommend,BUT I do a lot of times is lightly heat sleeve with heatgun,silicone arund coil and strut where sleeve will squeeze out silicone and seal properly ,THEN hold with pliers,GENTLY to lightly seat,then use wood block,goes on a lot easier,BUT have to keep a good check on clearance. When sleeve cools,will shrink to tight fit along with silicone bonding it in place! Good luck opt

 

Thanks for the advice, I got it on, no damage!
The sleeve is flush with the coil, the new armature plate pulled tight w/ key and AWD switch on and lets loose when the switch is turned off.

However I have zero resistance between the inner pole & outer sleeve.

I'm not sure if I checked it properly with one lead of the ohm meter on the outer sleeve and one on the inner pole? If this is the case seems like the only thing creating resistance would be the silicone, yet much of that was "scraped" to the outside when the seal was tapped on.

The bigger problem is that wheel does not always grab when it should, if it kicks in at all, it seems to have a delayed response (kicks in when the shaft is spinning faster) compared to the other front wheel. Hubs were installed and torqued according to manual. The hilliard has a new garter spring and some slight wear on the edge of the notches where the armature tabs fit up.

I'm not sure what where to go next, any further advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

If you are at .001 OR flush,distance is ok. Probably will take a little time to break in and operate properly.As far as both engaging at same time, I've had several that engagement was a little off between wheels. Should become less noticeable as load is put on awd system and breaks in. I think this is one of the reasons for centralized awd system on newer machines,they seem to be more uniform and less jerking when engaged. But the hub awd is a good system and generally easier for the home wrencher to work on.