stuck throttle
#11
#12
So as not to start a new thread, I'll bump this with my question. Seems like good info for me to try but just to expand for mine..
I pulled the cable out of the throttle and the carb completely, sprayed wd (all i had on hand) to see if it'll loosen up. Here's what I'm wondering.
I played with the oil pump and it returns perfectly fine, even will slap back down if I let the cable loose. Now shouldn't that oil pump be enough to pull the cable back down? Because if I pull it out on the throttle end, it won't go back unless I give it a little push back in, slides back in fine but will not go on it's own.
So I put the carb end back in (never took the oil pump end out, looks to a pain to deal with unless I HAVE to), and it will pull it back just fine. I put it all together, and leave the airbox off the carb and play with the throttle and it returns good. Although it seems a hair slow. It doesn't fall closed like my snowmobile's carb's do, but they are also 2 40mm flat side's so they got bit more weight and spring doing that. Pardon me for the side track, but wondering if it should close like it's got some weight to it, or just close softly like it does.
With everything buttoned up, the throttle will still hang forever. I won't dear go more than a blip of half throttle (its in neutral and parking brake on), but it will sit reving that high for a few seconds then very slowly will fall back to idle. It will do this riding when I had to load it on the trailer.
My question: The cable still looks clean as can be, but it still will not return right. Is it possible the carb needs cleaning as it's sticking? I know its got old gas and it's been awhile since it's been cleaned. Also know it has a fatter jet in it than it should (was loading up bad last year slow woods riding) so I need to open it anyways. Just curious if it's a dirty carb issue and not a cable before I spring for a new cable. Throttle doesn't pull it open very smooth. Got some gritty feel to it.
I pulled the cable out of the throttle and the carb completely, sprayed wd (all i had on hand) to see if it'll loosen up. Here's what I'm wondering.
I played with the oil pump and it returns perfectly fine, even will slap back down if I let the cable loose. Now shouldn't that oil pump be enough to pull the cable back down? Because if I pull it out on the throttle end, it won't go back unless I give it a little push back in, slides back in fine but will not go on it's own.
So I put the carb end back in (never took the oil pump end out, looks to a pain to deal with unless I HAVE to), and it will pull it back just fine. I put it all together, and leave the airbox off the carb and play with the throttle and it returns good. Although it seems a hair slow. It doesn't fall closed like my snowmobile's carb's do, but they are also 2 40mm flat side's so they got bit more weight and spring doing that. Pardon me for the side track, but wondering if it should close like it's got some weight to it, or just close softly like it does.
With everything buttoned up, the throttle will still hang forever. I won't dear go more than a blip of half throttle (its in neutral and parking brake on), but it will sit reving that high for a few seconds then very slowly will fall back to idle. It will do this riding when I had to load it on the trailer.
My question: The cable still looks clean as can be, but it still will not return right. Is it possible the carb needs cleaning as it's sticking? I know its got old gas and it's been awhile since it's been cleaned. Also know it has a fatter jet in it than it should (was loading up bad last year slow woods riding) so I need to open it anyways. Just curious if it's a dirty carb issue and not a cable before I spring for a new cable. Throttle doesn't pull it open very smooth. Got some gritty feel to it.
#15
Random thread to ask that kensey lol.
Yes the slide seemed to move up and down fine. I will say though that that it seem to hang on something when I dropped it. It hit a point like something didn't line up (I'm assuming the needle didn't maybe?). I didn't really think anything of it since it where it stopped, the slide was above the top of the carb, and couldn't screw top back on. Once I played with it a little it fell in place just fine. Without the airbox on, I see the slide opening and closing all the way just fine, but just seems to be a little slow at it. With it all open, the carb fell closed with no cable in it without a problem. Even made a "clap" sound cuz it hit bottom hard enough.
Let's say slide wasn't moving as smooth as it could be, what could you do about it? I'll go buy some carb cleaner and check back and pull it out little bit later.
I mean like I Said, the cable seems clean, no rust on the exposed parts. Doesn't move super easy like it's all oiled up. But does move with more ease than what would let it hang. I'll pull it in the garage and open it up a bit more. Should check my reed valve anyways and peak at the piston. Being a 2stroke, don't know how it's lasted this long! Overheat light as come on many of times on me actually. In sleds, if that light comes, you are passed the point you should be and scoring is most likely occuring, would assume its the same for this 400.
Yes the slide seemed to move up and down fine. I will say though that that it seem to hang on something when I dropped it. It hit a point like something didn't line up (I'm assuming the needle didn't maybe?). I didn't really think anything of it since it where it stopped, the slide was above the top of the carb, and couldn't screw top back on. Once I played with it a little it fell in place just fine. Without the airbox on, I see the slide opening and closing all the way just fine, but just seems to be a little slow at it. With it all open, the carb fell closed with no cable in it without a problem. Even made a "clap" sound cuz it hit bottom hard enough.
Let's say slide wasn't moving as smooth as it could be, what could you do about it? I'll go buy some carb cleaner and check back and pull it out little bit later.
I mean like I Said, the cable seems clean, no rust on the exposed parts. Doesn't move super easy like it's all oiled up. But does move with more ease than what would let it hang. I'll pull it in the garage and open it up a bit more. Should check my reed valve anyways and peak at the piston. Being a 2stroke, don't know how it's lasted this long! Overheat light as come on many of times on me actually. In sleds, if that light comes, you are passed the point you should be and scoring is most likely occuring, would assume its the same for this 400.
#16
Alright, found some carb cleaner at my gparents and gave it a shot. Took out slide, float bowl, and carb and hosed it all down good. Put it all back together and it works now. Still a bit stiff to push but revs drop like they should when I get off the throttle so should be set for that now.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
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Njrider1230
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
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07-29-2023 05:16 AM
2006, 99, atv, carburetor, closed, doesnt, loose, seedoo, slow, snowmobile, spring, sticks, stuck, throttle, trailblazer
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