Pic of belt
#11
Pic of belt
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 02magnum500
Thanks, Highoctane
The belt is fairly uniform all the way around checking with a dial caliper. I dont have an alignment tool for it or is there a different way?</end quote></div>
Well..you have offset,alignment,center distance ect.....and the procedure for checking the offset and alignment requires the tool. The alignment is adjusted by moving the engine around slightly..offset is set with shims.. The alignment is basically making sure the primary and secondary clutch are at the proper angles with one another..
Make sure you look at the engine mounts for tightness and damage(if one was broken you would likely have had symptoms,such as hard shifting)
But the common goal of these adjustments/checks is prpoer operation. If you didn't have the tool I suppose you could check it by running the machine in neutral and lookng at where the belt rides on the primary. It should be in the center..if it rides to the inside you would need to add shims behind the secondary if it rides to the outside you would remove shims..
That would be changing the offset and should work if the alignment is very close. If the alingment(motor position) is too far off no amount of shimming would fix that...that would require(on most machines) changing the angle of the primary clutch..that is where the tool comes in very handy.
Personally if you plan to do all you own clutch and belt maintencance you should invest in the tool and a service manual IMO..takes alot of the guess work out and then you know it is right!
Thanks, Highoctane
The belt is fairly uniform all the way around checking with a dial caliper. I dont have an alignment tool for it or is there a different way?</end quote></div>
Well..you have offset,alignment,center distance ect.....and the procedure for checking the offset and alignment requires the tool. The alignment is adjusted by moving the engine around slightly..offset is set with shims.. The alignment is basically making sure the primary and secondary clutch are at the proper angles with one another..
Make sure you look at the engine mounts for tightness and damage(if one was broken you would likely have had symptoms,such as hard shifting)
But the common goal of these adjustments/checks is prpoer operation. If you didn't have the tool I suppose you could check it by running the machine in neutral and lookng at where the belt rides on the primary. It should be in the center..if it rides to the inside you would need to add shims behind the secondary if it rides to the outside you would remove shims..
That would be changing the offset and should work if the alignment is very close. If the alingment(motor position) is too far off no amount of shimming would fix that...that would require(on most machines) changing the angle of the primary clutch..that is where the tool comes in very handy.
Personally if you plan to do all you own clutch and belt maintencance you should invest in the tool and a service manual IMO..takes alot of the guess work out and then you know it is right!
#13
#14
Pic of belt
WHat is the other line near the crack? To the right of the crack in the pic? Almost lookes like something came in contact wiht the belt and might have damaged it?
Is that crack the only one? Looking closer it looks like maybe something did some damage to start the process...at least where that crack is..or maybe it was a belt defect? Good luck getting it warrantied though..
This thread got me thinking about checking the offset and alignmet without the tool..it can be done..the Polaris shop manual does not explain how to but the Clymer manual does...and it makes perfect sense..I should have figured it out..simple really if you know how to check it with the tool...
Basically you lay a straight edge on the back(engine side) of the primary..it should extend behind the secondary as well..
Now measure the gap between the straight edge and the edge of the secondary farthest from the primary and the gap between the straight edge and the edge of the secondary closest to the primary..
The measurement to the back of the secondary edge closest to the primary should be 1/8" greater..
Clear as mud? lol
I suggest you get the manual..alot of good info for the money..
Is that crack the only one? Looking closer it looks like maybe something did some damage to start the process...at least where that crack is..or maybe it was a belt defect? Good luck getting it warrantied though..
This thread got me thinking about checking the offset and alignmet without the tool..it can be done..the Polaris shop manual does not explain how to but the Clymer manual does...and it makes perfect sense..I should have figured it out..simple really if you know how to check it with the tool...
Basically you lay a straight edge on the back(engine side) of the primary..it should extend behind the secondary as well..
Now measure the gap between the straight edge and the edge of the secondary farthest from the primary and the gap between the straight edge and the edge of the secondary closest to the primary..
The measurement to the back of the secondary edge closest to the primary should be 1/8" greater..
Clear as mud? lol
I suggest you get the manual..alot of good info for the money..
#15
Pic of belt
I fully follow what you are saying above. I really thank you for the help on this!! that mark next to the crack is just a machining mark, not scared up or a crack. When looking at the belt again I did find another crack in the belt (on the outside). smaller but still another crack. I do have a book for 89-95 polaris atvs. seems like some of the clutch stuff in there is the same as my 2004.5.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
#17
#18
Pic of belt
Looked at the alignment of the belt in the two pulles at idle. seems as though the belt was riding on the outer sheeve of the primary clutch. So I should just beable to remove a few of the shims on the secondary and be fine????? Motor mounts look good. I dont think the belt should turn the secondary in neutral...Mine does slowly..
#20
Pic of belt
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: 02magnum500
Looked at the alignment of the belt in the two pulles at idle. seems as though the belt was riding on the outer sheeve of the primary clutch. So I should just beable to remove a few of the shims on the secondary and be fine????? Motor mounts look good. I dont think the belt should turn the secondary in neutral...Mine does slowly..</end quote></div>
In neutral it should turn the secondary...that is normal...if the belt deflection was too tight it would be hard to shift..
Is it slipping on the primary in neutral?
Yes..if you remove shims and it doesn't seem to have much of an affect check the alignment like I expained..
Also look at the primary clutch sheaves..they should have a rounded transition at the bottom..not squared off...
Edit-BTW-these checks need to be done with a new belt really..don't waste your time doing them with a belt that is worn out of spec..get a new belt and go from there...
Looked at the alignment of the belt in the two pulles at idle. seems as though the belt was riding on the outer sheeve of the primary clutch. So I should just beable to remove a few of the shims on the secondary and be fine????? Motor mounts look good. I dont think the belt should turn the secondary in neutral...Mine does slowly..</end quote></div>
In neutral it should turn the secondary...that is normal...if the belt deflection was too tight it would be hard to shift..
Is it slipping on the primary in neutral?
Yes..if you remove shims and it doesn't seem to have much of an affect check the alignment like I expained..
Also look at the primary clutch sheaves..they should have a rounded transition at the bottom..not squared off...
Edit-BTW-these checks need to be done with a new belt really..don't waste your time doing them with a belt that is worn out of spec..get a new belt and go from there...