breaking through the ice
#1
well i broke through the ice in our streem out back and sunk her pretty good....
i broke a few things ( on the quad, im fine , just freezing)
I broke something in the front left tire, like a u joint or something inside that boot... the 4x4 shaft spins in 4x4 and the front right tire spings, but after the rod goes into the boot at the rotor it does not attempt to spin the tire when in the air.... what could it be?
the winch cable broke on me.... yes, i was very stuck and at a bad angle , think it rubed the brush guard and it shot away from me thank god... good place to get a replacement?
the roller fairlead is bent, hope i can fix that with a hammer...
The engine oil had a touch of water in it when i drained it... don't like that...
what other fluids need to be changed?
The right side was completely submerged in the rear, over the rack... the front was only up to the fender... the left side was mainly dry.... the antifreeze breather i always meant to extend was above water... by about 3"... the exhaust was submerged wth another 8' of water on top of it... i left it running to keep the water from getting into the engine,,,, the seat was dry so the intake was also...
man that thing was STUCK... but even in 3wd it drove home.... it was the only thing that could make it back to where i was.... trucks/tractors couldnt make it to tow me back, so i had to run it...
WHAT A DAY....
i broke a few things ( on the quad, im fine , just freezing)
I broke something in the front left tire, like a u joint or something inside that boot... the 4x4 shaft spins in 4x4 and the front right tire spings, but after the rod goes into the boot at the rotor it does not attempt to spin the tire when in the air.... what could it be?
the winch cable broke on me.... yes, i was very stuck and at a bad angle , think it rubed the brush guard and it shot away from me thank god... good place to get a replacement?
the roller fairlead is bent, hope i can fix that with a hammer...
The engine oil had a touch of water in it when i drained it... don't like that...
what other fluids need to be changed?
The right side was completely submerged in the rear, over the rack... the front was only up to the fender... the left side was mainly dry.... the antifreeze breather i always meant to extend was above water... by about 3"... the exhaust was submerged wth another 8' of water on top of it... i left it running to keep the water from getting into the engine,,,, the seat was dry so the intake was also...
man that thing was STUCK... but even in 3wd it drove home.... it was the only thing that could make it back to where i was.... trucks/tractors couldnt make it to tow me back, so i had to run it...
WHAT A DAY....
#2
Probably broke the cv joint, change the tranny, front and rear diff and engine oil, you can buy a whole axle shaft with everyting from the cv guy on ebay, cheaper than dealer ,good parts, good service.
#3
you mean i need to replace the whole front axle??? easy/hard, special tools?
any way to check the oil in the tranny / diffs with a dipstick or something to see if there is water in it?
all those fluids sound expensive if i go to Polaris and get them... any brands i can pick up at NAPA?
any way to check the oil in the tranny / diffs with a dipstick or something to see if there is water in it?
all those fluids sound expensive if i go to Polaris and get them... any brands i can pick up at NAPA?
#4
you can buy just the cv joint but its much easier just to replace the whole axle. comes with the boots already on. just pop the old axle off put the new one in and put the strut back together
#5
i found an FSM for a 05 sportsman 800... think its the same... or close...
it says to replace the driveshaft, all i need to do is take the wheel off, brakes off, the big nut on the driveshaft, and take the a-arm bolt off so it hangs down... pull the strut out and the shaft out of where it goes through... then with short steady jolts, the shaft should pop right out of the t-case.. to replace, just hit it with a rubber mallet back in...
sounds easy enough.... 150 bucks for just that will hurt though...
what kind of fluids do i need, can i get an oil filter at NAPA?
it says to replace the driveshaft, all i need to do is take the wheel off, brakes off, the big nut on the driveshaft, and take the a-arm bolt off so it hangs down... pull the strut out and the shaft out of where it goes through... then with short steady jolts, the shaft should pop right out of the t-case.. to replace, just hit it with a rubber mallet back in...
sounds easy enough.... 150 bucks for just that will hurt though...
what kind of fluids do i need, can i get an oil filter at NAPA?
#6
You might not have gotten water in the tranny or differentials. You can either run it a little to mix the water if there is any and pull the fill plugs and stick your pinky finger in and get some oil on it and see if it is milky. But I don't really suggest running it if it might have water in it..water is an abrasive and can wear bearings and gears quite fast. So after letting it sit overnight carefull loosen the drain plugs and let a little fluid run out,not too much or you'll need to top it off. If there is any unmixed water it will be at the bottom,if the water is mixed in it the fluid will be milky. If there is any water drain and flush it..ie drain refill with fresh fluid and drive it around for 10 minutes or so and drain and refill again then drive it a little more and check the fluids for water...
Do the same thing with your engine..don't just change to oil and go on your way if you know it got water in it..you might have to change it several times to get the water out depending on how much you got in it. How much is a touch? If it was enough to turn the oil mikly the water likely got every where and will collect in places that don't flush easily,especially ontop of the head. Also the filter will collect ond hold the milky oil in the filter element..so you need to change it each time as well. Some guys may get away with just changing the oil one but it is a gamble and whether they realize it or not they are shortening the life of engine components by not getting as much of the water out as possible. Again if it was a very tiny amount you're probably ok...but if it was enough to turn the oil milky and you rode it you might not have gotten so lucky..
Keep a check on the oil for metal flakes..if the bearings have started eroding there is no going back..they will likely fail prematurely. If you start noticing a good amount of metal in the oil youd be beter off to go ahead and tear it down then wait until the bearings totally fail and ruin the crank,rods ect..
If I am in a situation where there is a possibility I have water in the engine or may get water in it I shut it down and resort to other means to recover it..water in the engine,or gearboxes,diffs ect is just about as bad as having sand in it..but only does real damage if ran that way....if you fill the motor/gearbox ect with water ..no big deal as long as you DO NOT RUN it. You should get it out fairly quickly though.
Do the same thing with your engine..don't just change to oil and go on your way if you know it got water in it..you might have to change it several times to get the water out depending on how much you got in it. How much is a touch? If it was enough to turn the oil mikly the water likely got every where and will collect in places that don't flush easily,especially ontop of the head. Also the filter will collect ond hold the milky oil in the filter element..so you need to change it each time as well. Some guys may get away with just changing the oil one but it is a gamble and whether they realize it or not they are shortening the life of engine components by not getting as much of the water out as possible. Again if it was a very tiny amount you're probably ok...but if it was enough to turn the oil milky and you rode it you might not have gotten so lucky..
Keep a check on the oil for metal flakes..if the bearings have started eroding there is no going back..they will likely fail prematurely. If you start noticing a good amount of metal in the oil youd be beter off to go ahead and tear it down then wait until the bearings totally fail and ruin the crank,rods ect..
If I am in a situation where there is a possibility I have water in the engine or may get water in it I shut it down and resort to other means to recover it..water in the engine,or gearboxes,diffs ect is just about as bad as having sand in it..but only does real damage if ran that way....if you fill the motor/gearbox ect with water ..no big deal as long as you DO NOT RUN it. You should get it out fairly quickly though.
#7
the was about a tablespoon or so of pure water that came out of the oil res... the rest looked normal so i drove it...
what would be good to use to flush it... the polaris oil is real expensive...
i will change all fluids, buy a new winch line, drive shaft and tht should fix it all then... how much for all this you think?
what would be good to use to flush it... the polaris oil is real expensive...
i will change all fluids, buy a new winch line, drive shaft and tht should fix it all then... how much for all this you think?
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#8
the was about a tablespoon or so of pure water that came out of the oil res... the rest looked normal so i drove it...
what would be good to use to flush it... the polaris oil is real expensive...
i will change all fluids, buy a new winch line, drive shaft and tht should fix it all then... how much for all this you think?
what would be good to use to flush it... the polaris oil is real expensive...
i will change all fluids, buy a new winch line, drive shaft and tht should fix it all then... how much for all this you think?
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