04 Sportsman 700 Bogging
#11
#12
04 Sportsman 700 Bogging
Well, it's up and running. I think the majority of my problem was the carb, which in turn fouled out the plugs.
The one thing I noticed before I cleaned the carb, was that the slide didn't seem to open as fast or as fully as I would have expected when I hit the throttle. When I pulled the carb out, I cleaned it top to bottom. Checked the float height, pulled the main jet and pilot and ran cleaner through every port. I also pulled the diaphram out and cleaned the slide. It had residue on it as well as the diaphram.
Since changing plugs is such a pain, I pulled the plastic off so I could pull the gas tank. Which offered me the opportunity to check compression, replace the valve cover gasket and clean up the breather valve. Mine had leaked when the crank pressurized and spit oil into the air box. This was really a two part problem. I had bought the wheeler used so really never did anything to it. Here are some things to look at.
The breather filter between the valve cover and the air box must be installed with the arrow towards the engine.( Mine had been flipped) Installed the other way will allow oil into the airbox. I replaced it to be safe and the hose too.
I've never been a big fan of Champion plugs, so I switch to NGK.
I replaced all the lines off the fuel pump, one runs from a fitting off jug, between the carb boot and the head. This supplies the pressure for the fuel pump.
Replaced fuel filter and the filter suppling air direct to the carb. Just another fuel filter that is between the snorkel for the air box lid and the snorkel for I think the tranny.
Becareful of the foam that wraps around these, the can obstruct the air box snorkel and prevent it from running properly. I experimented with mine while test running it before I installed all the plastic. I could stall my engine by covering up the air box snorkel.
The other thing to watch for is the throttle cable adjustment.( on the handle bar under the rubber boot) Mine was way too tight, causing it to rev and drop when moving the cable around. But too loose and it will stall complete and wont start.
The three filters, breather and two fuel filters are about $10 total. I replaced the air box gasket since mine looked pretty well squished and that was $15. Set of NGK plugs $5. I also replaced my KN filter with a UNI foam per the recommendation of the Motocross guru by my work. They run around $28.
That was the extent of my findings. I think the slide on the carb being gunked up, was restricting the amount of air in the motor so she'd load up and stall.
And always remember to turn off the gas when parking it over night or trailering. I forgot once and it caused me all kinds of grief.
The one thing I noticed before I cleaned the carb, was that the slide didn't seem to open as fast or as fully as I would have expected when I hit the throttle. When I pulled the carb out, I cleaned it top to bottom. Checked the float height, pulled the main jet and pilot and ran cleaner through every port. I also pulled the diaphram out and cleaned the slide. It had residue on it as well as the diaphram.
Since changing plugs is such a pain, I pulled the plastic off so I could pull the gas tank. Which offered me the opportunity to check compression, replace the valve cover gasket and clean up the breather valve. Mine had leaked when the crank pressurized and spit oil into the air box. This was really a two part problem. I had bought the wheeler used so really never did anything to it. Here are some things to look at.
The breather filter between the valve cover and the air box must be installed with the arrow towards the engine.( Mine had been flipped) Installed the other way will allow oil into the airbox. I replaced it to be safe and the hose too.
I've never been a big fan of Champion plugs, so I switch to NGK.
I replaced all the lines off the fuel pump, one runs from a fitting off jug, between the carb boot and the head. This supplies the pressure for the fuel pump.
Replaced fuel filter and the filter suppling air direct to the carb. Just another fuel filter that is between the snorkel for the air box lid and the snorkel for I think the tranny.
Becareful of the foam that wraps around these, the can obstruct the air box snorkel and prevent it from running properly. I experimented with mine while test running it before I installed all the plastic. I could stall my engine by covering up the air box snorkel.
The other thing to watch for is the throttle cable adjustment.( on the handle bar under the rubber boot) Mine was way too tight, causing it to rev and drop when moving the cable around. But too loose and it will stall complete and wont start.
The three filters, breather and two fuel filters are about $10 total. I replaced the air box gasket since mine looked pretty well squished and that was $15. Set of NGK plugs $5. I also replaced my KN filter with a UNI foam per the recommendation of the Motocross guru by my work. They run around $28.
That was the extent of my findings. I think the slide on the carb being gunked up, was restricting the amount of air in the motor so she'd load up and stall.
And always remember to turn off the gas when parking it over night or trailering. I forgot once and it caused me all kinds of grief.
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