You can spray it from FAQ

IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15?
Most people brush it on, but many spray also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents are essential for spraying.

HOW DO I THIN POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT?
You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%.

 

Could also use Zero Rust

Zero-Rust Canada : SMJ Products & Services for High Performance Barrier Coat

 

I have used rustoleum (various types to include the HAMMERED) on my bumpers
and brushguards with MIXED results. After you clean it and do several coats, it really looks good, seems to bind well. But from exp. I get the same paint rubs in the same areas, its really frustrating. One time I just washed it with a clean up and I really think I washed the paint off (using plain liquid soap, garden hose and car wash mitt)?

Off course I am NO PAINT expert. Could it be my touch-ups were NOT sound b/c I never primed them before the paint coats? I don't know? I didn't think I would have to bring the whole bumper/brushguard paint job down to the metal, sand, prime before paint? I thought the touch-ups would sufficient? -- IMO

R

 

At Wal=mart I have found a product called "Rust Converter". It is found in the automotive section in the locked cabinet along with the spray on bed liner. this product is a good primer.
It sprays on clear and chemicly changes any rust to a black paintable surface.
Then I like to use Hammerite brand hammer tone spray paint.

 

Thanks for all the input guys...

I didn't get back here until now because I did not get even one email notification.
Better go check my settings again... probably just this site again though...

 

OK... what about Dupli-Color engine enamel with Ceramic?


I know it should be great for a pipe... but what about wheels?

Is this stuff with ceramic a tough abrasion/chip resistant paint?

 

I got pretty frustrated with this, out shopping around trying to find these different products that should work better.
I couldn't find much really available here local.

Acrylic, Enamel, Stove/BBQ, Ceramic, Bed Liner, and Tractor Paint... that was about it...

I read lots and lots about clear coat... that was the biggest recommendation...

So that cut choices to Acrylic, Enamel, Ceramic.

As quick as the black wheel paints came and went in this area, I decided against Ceramic.
No doubt touch ups will be needed.

So I was down to Acrylic and Enamel.

I wanted a "SATIN" finish when done.
I found satin clear Acrylic... but there was no satin black acrylic to be found.

So I bought flat black enamel, and plan to coat it with clear enamel.
Good ol Rustoleum.... LOL...

I'm betting it will still have more gloss than I want.
I'm testing it on the front hubs first... I shot them with etching primer, then flat black... haven't hit them with the clear yet.


I bought some Rustoleum Bed Liner also... so I might end up getting ****ed-off and shooting them with that before it's over with... LOL

 

The sheen of the base color makes no difference in what gloss level your end product has. It will all be based on what sheen (Gloss level) clear-coat you have. think of it like doing a wood table, all stains are flat the ammount of shine the table has is based on the topcoat (lacker/polly) you put on.