Thanks for the quick response.
Good info

 

Probably not what you want to hear, but you may want to assess the bottom end cost in parts, vs what the machine is worth. Tearing bottom end apart, replacing crank bearings, rod and bearing, gaskets, seals, hopefully counter balancer is good, etc, can get spendy in a hurry from your local Poo dealer

 

NO counterbalancer in the 300 engine,basically as simple as the 250 engine,BUT costs can be expensive when you completely rebuild an engine! Check costs on having a rod kit installed on the crank and trued, plus if you are able to reassemble yourself,ITS possible you can have a good running machine without spending twice what its worth! I come across this often when customers who are not wrench friendly want me to do a turn key job on an older machine and I give them the estimate,plus show them what the machine is worth and let them decide whether to repair or look at other options. The more you can do yourself can save big bucks on labor costs between $65-$95 OR more depending on area! OPT

 

HEck-
I have no problem doing it myself- that's why I bought it. Might need a little advice here and there, but I can do it. If you do your RESERCH, you can find QUALITY parts out there for a decent price.

I got my bearings for $25(discounted), from a place that had them just sittin around for a while. Good bearings (new)
I got my rbuilt rod kit for $50 (new)
I got my seal/gasket kit top and bottom for $30 (of course new)
So, Roughly around $100

LABOR- FREE
Have the tools.
Now, I just have to put in the time. I'll getter done

 

that is a deal my friend!!!!!!

 

Well-
I started at about 3 this afternoon on pulling the motor. Got it pulled, then was gonna work on it tomarrow to take off the top end and split the case. Although I was to anxious to see how the top end looked, so i pulled it off quick. Everything ended up looking good, so I was happy about that. Really interested to see what I find tomarrow on the lower end. The very suttle play is on the clutch side. Also, interested to see what the lower rod bearing looks like, there is also a little play left and right there.

ANY comments are a plus+++

Thanks!!!!
Kelly

 

A few questions-

1) When I put in the new bearings, do I pack them with anything and what is a good seal for in b/w the case.

2) Since I have the motor off, is there anything I should check for on the oil pump? (or do I really have to wait until it up and running)

3) What are some other good things to check while I have the motor off?
I will deffinately do a better over view of everything myself tomarrow, but was wondering what are some things I should deffinately change out or look at while it's off.

Thanks again

 

You need to have a 20 ton press or a big bearing separater and heat,which I use to get the oil pump worm gear off of the crank allowing you to take the crank bearing off behind it.. Plus must be reheated to install back on. I'd let a local shop do this,plus install the rod kit if you have one! Need specialized tools to rebuild a crank. OPT

 

Need some help trouble shooting- 1998 Polaris Xpress 300, 2 stroke

Just got done rebuilding the bottom end after reuilding the top end first.

Went to try and start it tonight. I had spark and compression- pretty sure I had fuel. It still made no attemp to fire up.

Any ideas????????????????????????? Puzzled


Buy the way- does anyone know the correct wiring for the stator? The last owner changed it out on there own, just wondering if it was done correctly? Would it still have spark if wires were missmatched? Just something I wanted to double check.
-The stator had one red wire and one white wire. Hooked the the red was a yellow/red wire and hooked to the white was a yellow wire I believe. The Exciting Coil had a black/red wire hooked to one side and the other side had the last remaining wire(cant remember the color off hand.

 

Any thoughts anyone?
Thank You
Kelly