1997 Polaris 400l Removing Crank Seals in chassis?
#1
1997 Polaris 400l Removing Crank Seals in chassis?
Hi All,
This is all multi question post:
Question 1: Water is leaking out of the water pump weap hole, Im planning on replacing all water pumps seals and bearing (2 water pump seals and bearing + all gaskets). There is no water in counterbalancer so I think it failed good. Anything else I should be looking for? I rebuilt top end last year, 130 compression the thing still smokes a little to much for my liking but runs really good. Which leads me to my next question ->
Question 2: Should I replace the crank seals while I have this thing apart? Im thinking this may be the reason for a little extra smoke, maybe not? The engine will be in the chasis, anything I should know about making the job easy? Do they just pry out and tap the new ones in? Are these the parts I should be replacing if it is smart to do this job. Parts, 44 (2 seals - magneto side), 56 (PTO seal), and isnt there a bearing outside the case which is smart to replace (Part 40?)
I have been reading up on posts but have not found a total answer to these questions, just trying to get my "bearings" under me before I start ripping down stuff.
Thank 4 the help!
HoopD
This is all multi question post:
Question 1: Water is leaking out of the water pump weap hole, Im planning on replacing all water pumps seals and bearing (2 water pump seals and bearing + all gaskets). There is no water in counterbalancer so I think it failed good. Anything else I should be looking for? I rebuilt top end last year, 130 compression the thing still smokes a little to much for my liking but runs really good. Which leads me to my next question ->
Question 2: Should I replace the crank seals while I have this thing apart? Im thinking this may be the reason for a little extra smoke, maybe not? The engine will be in the chasis, anything I should know about making the job easy? Do they just pry out and tap the new ones in? Are these the parts I should be replacing if it is smart to do this job. Parts, 44 (2 seals - magneto side), 56 (PTO seal), and isnt there a bearing outside the case which is smart to replace (Part 40?)
I have been reading up on posts but have not found a total answer to these questions, just trying to get my "bearings" under me before I start ripping down stuff.
Thank 4 the help!
HoopD
#2
Sounds like you caught it in time.
You can buy all the seals and the 2 gaskets that you need in a kit,just make sure the water pump seals come with the kit you are ordering.
Pay close attention on how the water pump seals are positoned when you take the old ones out ,they are different,and need to be installed that way.
Put a lil lube of some sort on the shafts when you install the crank seals,that way the seal lips will slide on the shaft.
You can buy all the seals and the 2 gaskets that you need in a kit,just make sure the water pump seals come with the kit you are ordering.
Pay close attention on how the water pump seals are positoned when you take the old ones out ,they are different,and need to be installed that way.
Put a lil lube of some sort on the shafts when you install the crank seals,that way the seal lips will slide on the shaft.
#3
Has anybody had luck with the ebay seal kits: POLARIS 94-97 400 Big Boss 6x6 Engine Oil Seal Kit : eBay Motors (item 270525818081 end time Mar-05-10 13:22:44 PST)
I already have the Polaris OEM seals for the waterpump, just wondering if I can save a few bucks on these for the crank.
I already have the Polaris OEM seals for the waterpump, just wondering if I can save a few bucks on these for the crank.
#4
I bought the seal kit for my 93 350l from the same seller, and had great luck with it.
The 350l and 400 are almost identical. There is no need to pull the motor out of the chassis to do a seal and gasket set. While I was in there changing the seals, I changed the crank bearings also. I suppose start to finish, it took me about 3 to 4 hours.
Before, it was hard starting, rough idling, now starts easy, runs hard. no worry about failure.
The 350l and 400 are almost identical. There is no need to pull the motor out of the chassis to do a seal and gasket set. While I was in there changing the seals, I changed the crank bearings also. I suppose start to finish, it took me about 3 to 4 hours.
Before, it was hard starting, rough idling, now starts easy, runs hard. no worry about failure.
#6
No I havent drained it, I pulled the plug and the 10w30 looked nice and clean. Im going to takle this project this weekend. Any tips on removing and replacing those crank seals (Such as screw removal method or tapping back in with a large socket)? And what crank bearings did you replace without spliting the case?
#7
the large socket deal works good.
I rebuilt mine this winter ,top and bottom end,so i had it all apart. never had a two stroke apart before and i was a lil leary about using rtv to put the two cases back together,but all is good. it's a very reliable machine. i did use the seal kit that you questioned about earlier,just purchased from a different vendor.
good luck and let us know if you need anything
I rebuilt mine this winter ,top and bottom end,so i had it all apart. never had a two stroke apart before and i was a lil leary about using rtv to put the two cases back together,but all is good. it's a very reliable machine. i did use the seal kit that you questioned about earlier,just purchased from a different vendor.
good luck and let us know if you need anything
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