Quote from manual.

with carb on it side,measure the distance from the carbs body gasket suface to the float.

float hieght is 13.7mm-15.7mm or 0.539-0.618 in.

 

TLC, thanks for the info. I will check that also while i am in there. Guess the plastic may warp or shrink or somthing in the "gas bath".

 

I know this thread is a little dated, but it has great info... I need my hand held I guess. In the parts picture TLC posted, is the 'valve needle rubber o-ring' the top ring of part #37, or does it have its own part number?

Also, will I need to take the carb off the quad to get to this, or can I get there from the top?

Thanks,
Mark

 

number 37 is sold in one package, everything, your needle, o ring, and seat, you will have to take the carb out to do it as it is in ur float bowl

 

if needle and seat are bad in carb, check your engine oil, it may be full of gas,also check air box and filter

 

K-Bird, you couldn't be more right. I'm embarassed to say the airbox was more than half full of gas, and the oil tank was full too. It destroyed the Uni filter I had in there.

I guess the breather tube from the airbox to the top of the oil tank delivered the gas (to the oil tank)?

I thank the good Lord that gas under my butt never ignited. I'm lucky and blessed.

Lesson learned to turn the gas off after I shut the quad off!

 

It has been awhile. I got the rebuild kit and new float bowl and put it all back together. It worked great for a 6 months or so. I start the bike about once a week to keep things fresh and when I did today gas came out again. It is really pouring out now! Should I buy another rebuild kit or should I send it off the the dealer to have the carb rebuilt? Does anyone know of someone I could send this off to and have them rebuild it?

Thanks for any and all help.

Nathan

 

If you have the BST 40 carb, like the one illustrated you can adjust this carb float and it will still leak at least a little out the over flow eventually! I never could get em to stop.Part of it being that the float itself is what puts pressure on needle valve seat when the carb bowl is installed and I just don't think it seals the needle valve that good and seeps past it? Its not like the old BST34 needle valve that was pushed in and held by a plate with 2 screws OR the older carbs that where the needle valve was just screwed in with a fiber washer,(the old 400 and 250 carbs.) Plus the spring wire clip that held the idle adjuster would always break and the idle adjuster would be laying on top of the starter! I've built a stronger way to hold the idle cable by just using a vent holder strap off old carbs that screwed on the carb bottom in place of the wire and you just curled it around the cable and they wouldn't break. Since you say you just ride it occasionally,could be varnishing up if you don't have any type of fuel stabilizer in the fuel system and could be causing problems also. OPT