Where is my oil going?
#1
#3
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I checked both plugs and one side had some built up oil on it. They aren't soaked with oil or anything. The center of each plug is a brownish color and the outside is black. One even had build up debris on it. I checked the hose going from the airbox to the top of the head and there is no breather (shouldn't there be one?) and unscrewed the two 8mm screws holding the breather piece on top of the head. Inside it was like a metal diaphram "reed" and was coated with a whiteish slime/substance. I put it all back together and started it. Noticed that if I pin it, it throws a black cloud (faintly). I do have seafoam in the gas but it's probably burning oil (worst on the one side). Had anyone ever pulled the head & cylinders in a twin before? I am undecided if I want to tackle this myself of take it to the dealer. I topped if off before the ride yeasterday and we did 60+ miles. Today I checked level and it didn't show any on the dipstick. Had to add about 700ml. If anyone can steer me in the correct direction here it would be appreciated. I am starting to wonder if ATV'in is for me with all this bad luck.
#4
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On another note - I've been topping the oil off with 10w40 Castrol Oil with the recommended "SH" API rating. Should I change the oil with some Mobil 1 0W40 and see if there is a difference? I hate to change the pistons/rings if I don't have to. If I have to....can this be done with the motor in the bike? Sorry for all the questions. Someone out there has to have had this happen before....
Checked the radiator and no oil in the anti-freeze. Pulled the dip stick and can't smell gas in the oil.
Checked the radiator and no oil in the anti-freeze. Pulled the dip stick and can't smell gas in the oil.
#5
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First off, just about everyone here has had or will have mechanical problems sometime. It's the nature of 4 wheeling. You play, you pay. We all do. Don't let it get you down. ![Smile](https://atvconnection.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I bet the LH plug is the gunked up one. It seems like it always runs colder than the RH side.
The metal reed is the breather I think. The newer models have a rubber one.
The whitish substance is probably condensation. A small amount is normal.
The black cloud is probably too much fuel. Air cleaner may be dirty, and the twins all are rich from the factory.
I personally would change the oil out so that you know it's not a mixed bag of different oils.
If it's all thinned out or synthetic and dino, that could be aggravating the problem. Some synthetics don't mix well with conventional petroleum oils. It could also be contaminated or just worn out.
I'm wondering if the quad sat for awhile and the oil rings are maybe stuck. I had this happen on a Honda. Maybe a small amount of seafoam in the cylinders would cure that? It's worth a shot anyways.
Yes. the pistons and rings are easy to do in the chassis. I thought it was harder taking off all the plastic and the gas tank then actually changing the rings out. My 2 cents anyways.
Give me a call if you want. You got my number. See you. Bill
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I bet the LH plug is the gunked up one. It seems like it always runs colder than the RH side.
The metal reed is the breather I think. The newer models have a rubber one.
The whitish substance is probably condensation. A small amount is normal.
The black cloud is probably too much fuel. Air cleaner may be dirty, and the twins all are rich from the factory.
I personally would change the oil out so that you know it's not a mixed bag of different oils.
If it's all thinned out or synthetic and dino, that could be aggravating the problem. Some synthetics don't mix well with conventional petroleum oils. It could also be contaminated or just worn out.
I'm wondering if the quad sat for awhile and the oil rings are maybe stuck. I had this happen on a Honda. Maybe a small amount of seafoam in the cylinders would cure that? It's worth a shot anyways.
Yes. the pistons and rings are easy to do in the chassis. I thought it was harder taking off all the plastic and the gas tank then actually changing the rings out. My 2 cents anyways.
Give me a call if you want. You got my number. See you. Bill
#6
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Well I went to change the oil on my newly aquired machine and turns out the previous owner stripped the 6mm hex drain plug. What a PITA! Luckly a little heat to the oil pan and a easy-out did the trick. Makes me wonder if that's why my oil is burning...it's probaly so damn thin because he couldn't change it??? Who knows. Stopped at a dealer and picked up the new drain plug and copper ring. She now has a fresh napa oil filter (thanks to this forum for giving me the cross reference info) and some Mobil 1. We'll see if the seafoam freed up the rings/oil seal.
When at the dealer today, the mechanic there told me to put a cap full of brake fluid per quart of oil. He told me the brake fluid will swell any seals and that would tell me if my oil seals need replacing. So I followed his instructions and added it with my oil change tonight. I will post up if I see a difference. I never heard that brake fluid can help seals like that. Anyone else ever hear this before?
When at the dealer today, the mechanic there told me to put a cap full of brake fluid per quart of oil. He told me the brake fluid will swell any seals and that would tell me if my oil seals need replacing. So I followed his instructions and added it with my oil change tonight. I will post up if I see a difference. I never heard that brake fluid can help seals like that. Anyone else ever hear this before?
#7
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Yes brake fluid and oil have some sort of reaction when mixed. I had a young lady some years ago break down a block from my shop. Inspected the vehicle and determined the brakes were locked. Long story short, she just had her car serviced at a local quick-lube.
Had to replace her entire brake system where seals were involved due to someone adding power steering fluid to her brake reservoir. Upon inspection of the seals they grew at least 75% over their original size, thus binding the rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder.
The small amount you added may be acceptable, but personally am leary of doing so myself. If seals are bad I would replace, thats just my opinion.
Had to replace her entire brake system where seals were involved due to someone adding power steering fluid to her brake reservoir. Upon inspection of the seals they grew at least 75% over their original size, thus binding the rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder.
The small amount you added may be acceptable, but personally am leary of doing so myself. If seals are bad I would replace, thats just my opinion.
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#8
#9
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To ways oil is used, leak or burn. If your rings are gone you should notice the ATV smokes much more then your riding buddies.
Polaris motors are designed for Full synthetic low weight oils only such as 0w or the new 2w. using 10w and up will wear them out faster because it does not flow as fast on cold starts. even 5w I would not try.
Polaris motors are designed for Full synthetic low weight oils only such as 0w or the new 2w. using 10w and up will wear them out faster because it does not flow as fast on cold starts. even 5w I would not try.
#10
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Well I figured I'd post an update. I pulled the head and everything looks fine. Pulled the cylinder and WA LA...a bad oil seal. It was on the left side and all bent over. Replacing the pistons as a set while I have it apart and should be good to go. Figured I'd post up as it might help someone else in the future.