03 Sportsman 700 Head Gasket Advice
#1
OK, my 700 was burning coolant big time, and turning it over with the radiator cap off could get you splashed. It had been having an over heating problem, I bought it last fall because the previous owner was frustrated. I've been trying to get it up to snuff, replacing the rear axles, and now this.
So, I bought a new head gasket (and valve stem seals), took the thing apart. The old gasket's surface was flaking big time, but other than that I could not see an issue. Using a feeler gauge and straight edge, I could not get my smallest .0015 blade in anyhere on either the head or the cylinder, so I'm satisfied there's no warpage. Some cross hatching could be seen on the cylinder walls.
I cleaned everything up good, replaced the valve stem seals, and proceeded to reassemble. I did not have the "Primer-N" that the service manual calls for to lube the head bolts, but used motor oil to coat the threads and under the head of the bolt. Torqued them to 63 ft/lbs in the prescribed pattern - first to 30, then to 50, then to 63 (not loosening them, each time just going tighter).
When reassembled, the thing leaped to life, very gratifying! Took it down the driveway, and she started smoking white again. Brought it back to the barn, shut it off and swore a bit. A little while later, started it again, at idle it was fine. Under load, it starts to burn coolant again.
So, I clearly made things better, But.
1) Is the use of motor oil instead of the Primer-N an issue?
2) Is my technique faulty?
3) Is it worthwhile to try to retorque the head?
4) Do I get another head gasket?
5) Is there a better aftermarket head gasket?
6) Is it time to bring it to a machine shop?
This thing is sooo close to being perfect, I'm really getting ready for the summer, just about there.......
So, I bought a new head gasket (and valve stem seals), took the thing apart. The old gasket's surface was flaking big time, but other than that I could not see an issue. Using a feeler gauge and straight edge, I could not get my smallest .0015 blade in anyhere on either the head or the cylinder, so I'm satisfied there's no warpage. Some cross hatching could be seen on the cylinder walls.
I cleaned everything up good, replaced the valve stem seals, and proceeded to reassemble. I did not have the "Primer-N" that the service manual calls for to lube the head bolts, but used motor oil to coat the threads and under the head of the bolt. Torqued them to 63 ft/lbs in the prescribed pattern - first to 30, then to 50, then to 63 (not loosening them, each time just going tighter).
When reassembled, the thing leaped to life, very gratifying! Took it down the driveway, and she started smoking white again. Brought it back to the barn, shut it off and swore a bit. A little while later, started it again, at idle it was fine. Under load, it starts to burn coolant again.
So, I clearly made things better, But.
1) Is the use of motor oil instead of the Primer-N an issue?
2) Is my technique faulty?
3) Is it worthwhile to try to retorque the head?
4) Do I get another head gasket?
5) Is there a better aftermarket head gasket?
6) Is it time to bring it to a machine shop?
This thing is sooo close to being perfect, I'm really getting ready for the summer, just about there.......
#3
Interesting your service manual says different. Here's what my manual says -
Before reassembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This
Here's from the inside cover-
"This manual includes procedures formaintenance operations, component identification and unit repair, along with service specifications for 2003 Polaris Sportsman 600/700 ATVs. Comments or suggestions about this manualmay be directed to: Service Publications Dept.@Polaris Sales Inc. 2100 Hwy 55 MedinaMinnesota 55340.
2002 Sportsman 600/700 ATV Service Manual (PN 9918066)"
Note that it says it covers 2003 models. Perhaps they've updated the procedure?
I'm going to get another gasket and try the following technique (which I think is from your, perhaps newer, manual) - Torque to 35 lbs, wait one minute, torque an additional quarter turn.
If that doesn't do it I'm going to try chemical warfare, a step I'm hesitant to take.
ENGINE HEAD REASSEMBLY
Before reassembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This
will ensure proper sealing when installing bolts and new Loctite.
1. Install the head gasket (A) on the cylinder (B).
2. Install cylinder head on cylinder.
3. Install head bolts (C). Torque bolts to 60-64 ft. lbs.
(81-87Nm), following torque pattern on Page 3.9.2. Install cylinder head on cylinder.
3. Install head bolts (C). Torque bolts to 60-64 ft. lbs.
Here's from the inside cover-
"This manual includes procedures formaintenance operations, component identification and unit repair, along with service specifications for 2003 Polaris Sportsman 600/700 ATVs. Comments or suggestions about this manualmay be directed to: Service Publications Dept.@Polaris Sales Inc. 2100 Hwy 55 MedinaMinnesota 55340.
2002 Sportsman 600/700 ATV Service Manual (PN 9918066)"
Note that it says it covers 2003 models. Perhaps they've updated the procedure?
I'm going to get another gasket and try the following technique (which I think is from your, perhaps newer, manual) - Torque to 35 lbs, wait one minute, torque an additional quarter turn.
If that doesn't do it I'm going to try chemical warfare, a step I'm hesitant to take.
#4
Is it possible that an oil seal or water pump seal failure could also cause it to burn?? I know mine was going thru coolant, and the seals went bad but no head gasket problems. I know usually if you are burning that much thru the exhaust it is the head gasket but I thought I would at least throw that out there...
#7
Is the inside of your muffler and head pipe still coated with coolant from the previous head gasket being bad?may have to get your machine good and hot to burn all the coolant out of the exhaust .We have run into that before.
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#8
Here's my plan of attack -
1) Try a retorque. I don't expect this to work, but what the heck.
2) I've ordered a new gasket in case that doesn't do the trick.
3) If 1 or 2 doesn't do it, Bar's Leak is gonna get a crack at it.
#9
Final update:
I was installing the second new headgasket, and while thinking about it, I decided as long as I had the head off again, I'd take it to a machine shop (our local NAPA has one). $100 and 2 days later I got what looked like a brand-spanking new head, the machinist said it was about .008" out of flat (book says .004" limit), I guess my starightedge/feeler gauge technique leaves something to be desired.
Anyhoooooo, slapped everything back together and she roared to life, and everything seems fine. I haven't had it on a serious ride, but I've been zipping around my property for a few hours with no problems. I'm one happy camper!
I was installing the second new headgasket, and while thinking about it, I decided as long as I had the head off again, I'd take it to a machine shop (our local NAPA has one). $100 and 2 days later I got what looked like a brand-spanking new head, the machinist said it was about .008" out of flat (book says .004" limit), I guess my starightedge/feeler gauge technique leaves something to be desired.
Anyhoooooo, slapped everything back together and she roared to life, and everything seems fine. I haven't had it on a serious ride, but I've been zipping around my property for a few hours with no problems. I'm one happy camper!
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