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Tiny pin hole in rear inner cv boot. Should I replace?

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Old 05-29-2010, 05:34 PM
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Default Tiny pin hole in rear inner cv boot. Should I replace?

I have a 2006 Sportsman 800 and there is a tiny tiny hole that is letting just little droplets of grease out of. Is there a way I can patch this up or should I get a whole new boot? Thanks for the input.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 05:36 PM
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YES. I prefer the Polaris Brand of boots-easier to install.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fischer2011
I have a 2006 Sportsman 800 and there is a tiny tiny hole that is letting just little droplets of grease out of. Is there a way I can patch this up or should I get a whole new boot? Thanks for the input.
put this way. if grease is getting out then water is getting in so it will eat the cv joint in short order water enough crap gets in. a boot is alot cheaper then a cv joint. trust me on this.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by weedy
YES. I prefer the Polaris Brand of boots-easier to install.
I agree with WEEDY. Polaris boot for a replacement and the factory style clamps for clearance issues.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:23 PM
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I will be ordering a new boot. I started taking the axle out today and i got everything off but the axle it self. Do I have to pry it out of the differential or pull it off or how does it come off? Thanks
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:23 PM
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Grab the axle by the shaft, push all the way in , and give a quick/firm jerk to get it out. Might take a few tries. If it is really stubborn you can CAREFULLY pry it out. I coat the splines with never-seize before re-installing.
 
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:37 PM
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Don't pull anything out of the diff. Clean all the grease out of that inner joint and you'll see a clip in a groove about a 1/4" from the edge. Remove the clip with some good snapring pliers and the CV joint will then slide out.

For the clamps on the new boot I agree the Polaris boot kit is the way to go. Might be able to use some form of pliers or channel locks to install the nice clamps or got the tool. I have done mine pretty easily with my Knipex pliers.

For those who don't know what Knipex pliers are the are a form of self-gripping channel lock like pliers mage in Germany. IMO best pliers ever. So if you have to buy a clamp tool IMO you may as well get the Knipex because they can be used for so many other things.

 
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Old 05-30-2010, 07:21 AM
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try reveiwing the CV JOINT thread in the sticky thread for good info in removing.
 
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by uncle matt

For those who don't know what Knipex pliers are the are a form of self-gripping channel lock like pliers mage in Germany. IMO best pliers ever. So if you have to buy a clamp tool IMO you may as well get the Knipex because they can be used for so many other things.

Those are the Knipex Alligators, and they are great, but Knipex makes a locking version called Cobras, which are even better. Best Channel Lock style tools in the world, no doubt.
 
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bitterfitter
Those are the Knipex Alligators, and they are great, but Knipex makes a locking version called Cobras, which are even better. Best Channel Lock style tools in the world, no doubt.
The self-gripping works awesome. I can grab a pipe of pipe and once it takes a bite all it takes is push and no squeeze.

I don't like the Cobras because they have the button protruding from the side you push to adjust. I have ran into occasion when the pliers must be flush to something and the button gets pushed. That's why I prefer the gators.

Another place Knipex really shine is on rounded off tubing flare nuts like on some fuels filters.
 


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