Forgot to ask, I'm in need of some clutching information, looking to maximize low and mid range acceration, anyone have ideas, or can point me in the right direction (clutches are stock primary to the sled and stock secondary to the quad).

Looking for a sooner egagement, and basically looking to maximize mid range performance as where i ride i won't be able to use all 140hp due to the slower speeds.

 

YouTube - scrambler with a triple

vid of it running

 

That looks like it's going to be fast and fun to ride.

To be honest with you I don't know anything about clutching for sled motors.In my Sport I'm running an orange primary spring from EPI that is for a Polaris sled and it has given me my second best times this year at the dragstrip, but it has consistently given me fast times for the past few months which is important to me because I bracket race my Polaris in a points series at an IHRA Dragstrip and am planning on doing some heads-up dirt dragracing in 2011.I know that when I was working on my clutching I had a tough time getting it dialed in, but after alot of trial and error I finally got a combination that I'm happy with.

The best way that I've found to experiement with clutching is at a paved IHRA or NHRA dragstrip.If you set your quad up to be consistent by using slicks (I use JR Dragster slicks) and a wheelie bar then you can pretty much eliminate wheelspin and wheelies and get consistent times.Then I just make 3-5 passes with each clutch setup that I'm testing and compare my 60', 330', 660' and MPH.It's probably not a 100% accurate way to get the clutching optimal, but it works okay for me.

There is also a website that you might want to checkout called atvhpjunkies.com.They have several guys over there that run sled motors in ATV's and have experience dialing in their clutching.Most of the people on that site dragrace in dirt and grass drags and have some wicked quads just like your triple.

 

Cool thanks for the help, I'll check that site out and see what I can dig up

 

you need the stiffest sec clutch spring you can get in that thing. a helix with a low ramp angle will help as well. most stock sec from the quads have straight 40 degree.
if you have the stock sec quad spring in that thing it will gear up way too fast. What ever somebody is using with a quad motor is probably not going to be enough.
I see waahehe94 is using a sled spring, may be place to start though. but he is running about half your horsepower. What is your engagement at?
Shorter stiffer primary spring will have a lower enagement than a long softer one. but the long soft won't raise the rpm like the stiffer spring. A lower engagement may work better in a quad than a sled cause of the less resistance of the wheels. but if you are drag racing you want a high engagement.

I have clutched sleds and clutched quads but never a sled motor in a quad. good luck

 

mrtwostroke, thanks for the info, gives me a place to start from, as the longer to gear up and a sooner engagement (it's around4500 right now) is what I'm after, the soone egagementis mainly to reducethr chance of broken parts when getting started.

so yeah I'll do a bit more looking, but after is jetted propely I'll start with a stiff secondary with a short angle, and then the same for the primary as you suggest.

 

ya 4500 clutch engagement is pretty high. i bet for slow speed rideability a lower engagement would work. as long as it had enough power at 3000-3500 to crawl around.
would affect your shift out rpm though (which i'm not sure i understand). I think a shorter stiffer primary spring should lower the enagement and keep the top rpm similiar. but I would have to see and feel the spring to know. You need to find an old sledder, that has done lots racing and modding. I know guys like that who have a bucket full of old clutch springs to play with. You will probably need a polaris guy but you can get lucky with other brands.

Are you using the four wheel drive? different gearing would help too. but with those shaft drive units that is hard.

 

I would start by looking at the stall and shiftout numbers on the factory primary spring for the sled that you took the motor out of.Any changes or mods that you have made to alter the horsepower and torque curve will effect how you need to determine what shiftout RPM you want to try.An example of this would be a better flowing exhaust system or port work on your cylinder.

This is just a generic example, but say that your stock motor and exhaust had a primary spring that had a shiftout of 6,200 RPM and you had your cylinder ported to match a new exhaust that you bought and also added bigger carbs.Now your engines horsepower and torque curves may have moved and the motor performs better at 7,500 RPM's.If your factory primary spring had a rating of 120/260 (120 being the stall speed and 260 being the shiftout) then you might want to try a primary spring rated with a shiftout of 310.The 310 shiftout might get you close, but it might perform better with a shiftout of 290 or even 340.Without testing at a track or on a dyno you won't really know for sure how much power there is to gain.You also need a tach to know your RPM's.On the other hand having a primary spring with too low of a shiftout will cost you power and make you slower.

Stall speed makes a difference in performance also.I have noticed as much as a 1/10th of a second in my 60' times at the track by raising my stall speed.If your not racing and just trailriding I would just find a stall speed that is comfortable for you on the trails.A 140 stall rating may not perform as well as a 190 stall rating on the dragstrip, but it will make for a more enjoyable trail ride.

You should just try to establish a baseline with the stock primary spring numbers and then go from there unless you can find someone else with a combo similar to yours that is willing to share some information.The weights on the primary clutch will also make a difference in your shiftout.Clutching just takes time, patience, testing, tuning and money.

If I told you how many Test & Tune nights that I've spent at the IHRA Dragstrip that I race at and how many primary clutch springs that I have you probably wouldn't believe me.I also currently own three secondary clutches.One with an Aaen roller setup, one with HPD super buttons and a couple of different helix's and springs and the one that I've been using for the last few months which is a Team Roller Secondary.

Setting up the clutching for a race mod ported motor with a 20hp shot of Nitrous Oxide can be a huge learning curve.

 

Thanks so much for the help on the clutching, i have a few springs on order, going one up and one down on the primary to see what i like, then on the secondary I've got the stiffest one i can find, and one a two steps lighter, and I'll try both and see what i like and go from there.

Now for a big issue, well it could be a big issue, anyway i pulled the carbs this afternoon to fiddle with the jets and clean the carbs out and i found out that the choke cable on the mag side cyclinder is missing the piece on the end (whatever you want to call it) that makes the choke work properly, then on the center carb the needle jet appear to have been stripped, so i can't remove/unscrew it, so i'll need to get an easy out to try to remove it, the choke cable issue i'm unsure of how to fix that, but that does explain why i was getting a poping/backfire out of that pipe.

Soo all sorts of fun lol, i'l update more tomorrow, i'm gonna try to finda set of replacement carbs for it used or new, so we'll see how this will go.