would that cause it to runn crazy an irratic? forgot to mention,..when its doing this an in gear it rev's high on its own too?? also,..whats best spark plug for this thang an whats a good gap?? is there a safety mechanism on oil system that could be tryin to cut of motor??

 

Could be the carb,cables,leaking crank seal? But if has excessive slack in throttle sounds like slide or pump cable problem?? BR8ES ngk spark plug,gap about .028-.032 The safety is built into the throttle ETC,this is probably whats causing erratic problem too,internal contacts probably touching,thats why throttle has to have ONLY about 1/8" slack on lever or the ETC (electronic throttle control will kick in and can cause to die,popping back also) OPT

 

thats bout what it is,..thanks again opt,..you da man!!

 

the oil pump should go wide open I believe if one of two things happen. broken cable spring puts it wide open. or spring breaks and cable pulls it there but doesn't go back.

I think when cable breaks the spring over centers past idle position and comes back to the wide open position. making things really smokey.

oil pumps on these bikes can be susceptible to rust from water contamination. Have you pulled the cover off? I am betting it is full of water.

 

so what exactly is a throttle ETC?? an where it located in genral??

 

It cuts ignition in case of a stuck throttle. there is a contact swtitch in the throttle box on the handle bar.

 

Safety device built into throttle housing.In case cable breaks, snags on tree limb,etc,the limiter will cut spark,retard timing to keep machine from running wild. But cable has to be adjusted properly,adjuster under rubber sleeve where cable goes into throttle housing.After cable replacement or as cable stretches slack must be taken up.Just loosen lock nut,turn adjuster in or out to obtain 1/8" slack at lever,then tighten lock nut. Find out your problem whether at carb or pump cable/pump assembly,or where ever,THEN adjust throttle if cable is ok to use. OPT

 

gonna start with the oil pump,..been needing to take the gear out of it an disconect oil line an plug it like we discussed,..then if that ant it ill be checking the carb,...may be dirt in slide,..as carb is a new shade of red clay mud,..thought id be busy learning to ride,..but im learning more bout ...lol...old polaris tech,...thats ok,..i had to become a diesel mechanic before i was worth a dern as a truck driver,...wanted to learn to drive a dirt track car bout 5 years ago,..an now im a redneck race car fabricator,..still a ways to go before its drivable tho!!lolol gotta love it!! thanks yall!! ill post back in a few days when i get time to figure this 2smoke out!

 

well went out to shop after kids went to bed,..an pittled with this thang till 4am,..the screws holding oil pump houseing will not budge,..thayll ether strip the heads or brake,..so i took off line from tank an drained it,..took line off intake manifold,...put a bolt an copper oring in hole for plug an ran that oil line with rest of over flow tubes,...an i cut throttle cable to oil pump at lil slide box where cable splits,an filled hole with j-b weild,...question? how bad is it to not remove oil pump gear???? so then went to carb,...rubber seal between carb an air box was not on bottom of carb but looked right from top,..an guess that big red clay mudd puddle was deep nuff to get sucked in carb seal,...cleand carb an slide an adjusted cable an still wont quite right,...pulled slide back out an streached spring real good an running like a top now!! happyness is a smooth 2 stroke!!

 

Sounds like a little "Southern Engineering" I'm proud of Ya! You can pull pump and gear just comes off after you remove pin,BUT you can also just use some little black rubber plugs to block off in and out on pump to keep trash out,ONLY thing I can think of that could be a problem if gear sticks,but is lubed by counter balancer shaft oil that also lubes the water pump bearing and gears,BUT if you remove the gear, pump will be "defeated' completely and be a non issue with no worries. OPT