Well, seems like the caliper turned out; but I have hardly run it since getting it back from a carb re-build. Almost kicked on the second or third pull, and then absolutely nothing. I should have realized it might need some tweeking when the tech asked me the trick to starting it... Always started on the first or second pull (starter out). Choke on, pull... start or second pull. Anyway, I am thinking maybe I need to check the carb adjustments. Maybe too rich? When I got it to start a couple days ago, it took quite a few pulls and finally sputtereed to life slowly after turning the choke off. I had to really feather it to keep it running and then it warmed up and seemed OK. Never used to have issues with it, but the carb was dripping out the bowl. Maybe too rich an idle adjustment?. Wondering if there are some basics to run through on adjustment checks. Since it almost caught today, I feel confident there is spark,. I can check, but what a pain to access the plug on this thing.

Thanks for your pointers... - Doug

 

Try holding throttle WIDE open and try to crank(could be flooded),if doesn't help,check plug for fire,could be fouled. Also there is a 10mm crank case drain screw under engine close to starter in case a lot of gas is in the bottom end. Compression has to be at least 100 psi. If gas dripping from the carb float setting may off.Did you have the needle and seat replaced?? Air/fuel screw on side of carb two turns out from lightly seated position. PLUS on the old 2-strokes always turn the fuel valve off after use.They can flood the crank out with gas even if the carb has been rebuilt. This could be bad on the crank seals. OPT

 

Tried throttle wide open... Will check for fouling. The kicker is I just paid to have the carb re-built. BUt the tech seemed to have a bit of trouble starting it as well after that. I have no idea how good the guy is or isn't... never been there vbefore, newer little corner shop and about the only place that will work on it.The starting was much harder after that...?? Wondering if something needs adjustment... or how to check. I had a drip out the bottom of the bowl... Now it's hard to start. I had it running a couple times since the re-build, but it was still a little finicky. Seems worse now... I will check the plug. What's the best way to double-check for spark? Don't want to screw any of the electrics up in the process.

When it last started, a couple days ago, it was also hard to start, and it was har5d to keep it running because it wanted to die out. I gave it gas, lightly, and it stayed running. Once it seemed warmed up... a couple minutes later, throttle response was good and idle was O.K. - Doug

 

You can ground spark plug on side of the cylinder and check for spark. Plus I would have the compression checked!! 100 psi MINIMUM for it to crank and run properly, plus could be bad crank seals?They can leak and cause problems. Basically you have to have good compression on the top end and crank seals have to be good so the fuel/oil mixture can can compress at the bottom of the engine and send the mixture up the transfer ports into the cylinder. Hard to find a manual for this old machine, but if you can find one for a 250 Trail boss or Trail Blazer, will have the same engine and will explain a lot on the engine and carb. OPT