I guess they need to send the crank assembly out to have it split and pressed back together. I found the lower bearing on cheapcycleparts instead of having to buy a whole rod kit. The rod and piston are in great shape they say. I'm also going to need an engine gasket kit. Do you know of a cheap one?

 

Don't know of an after market source on a gasket kit or even if one is available for the Predator other than Oem part by part,but others may know on this. Still online oem parts usually cheaper than the local dealers even with shipping if you order enough items! Just compare prices! Good luck OPT

 

O it looks like im going to try and split the case by myself and remove the crank to go have it split. Is this something i should do? I have pretty decent mechanical knowledge but i have never pulled an engine on a 4 wheeler and been this far into the bottom end. The guy i took this thing to has changed his story about 4 times and im pretty sure im having to pay him for 3 hours of service and he has done nothing but pull the top end. Originally he told me he adjusted the valves and one was smashed shut but now he's saying that they have not adjusted anything and that the valves are probably bent and he hasn't even taken the top cover off to look he said the black circles on the bottom look like one has a gap around the edge but i couldn't see anything so I have basically got a 200$ bill and don't know anything other than the valves might be bent and the rod bearing is supposedly bad, however it was never making any noises when i was trying to turn it over so i have no clue but im getting pissed off now so im gonna rip it apart myself. Any step by step guide out there for this? Sorry for the book

 

Best to take the crank to a machine shop as it has a pressed on outer gear that drives the counter balancer and almost impossible to get off with out chipping the teeth! Either obtain a manual and see if you want to even tackle this,PLUS sounds like you need another shop if you're getting the run around. Are they even a Polaris dealer?? OPT

 

yea I'm definitely not gonna try to separate the crank by myself but will i be able to get the case apart and get the crank out? do i need a puller for the crank and do i need to pull the flywheel? also i really wondering whether or not i even need to mess with this rod. it seems to me that when the chain tensioner came out it threw the valves out of sync and when they opened and closed at the wrong time the piston hit them. the rod and piston are in perfect shape and that leads me to believe that the valve just got tapped shut and thats why it wouldnt start. the slack the guy is trying to show me in the rod and clutch seems to be natural. its very minimal. would it possibly be that the clutch is worn out instead of this bearing? i cant figure out why a bearing in the belly of an engine where theres always oil would be bad this early. its only 5 years old

 

another thing im wondering about is that the guy demonstrated this slack by turning the flywheel, at first there was some movement back and forth but then he pulled up on the piston and kept pressure on it and the movement became less apparent. to me this indicates a worn clutch assembly or something other than the rod bearing because there is absolutely no movement side to side in the rod

 

Please get a manual on the Predator!! You will see what tools are needed and how it has to be torn down and reassembled,if not you will have a bucket of bolts NO one will work on! I've turned down dozens of basket cases over the years when owners got too far in over their heads! I've even repaired atvs for a couple local GM techs who were po'd when they didn't have the right tools themselves and had to breakdown and bring em to me! There's too many things that have to come in place and line up in this engine. To answer your piston question, slight side to side rod play OR no side play is ok! Just NO UP and down play on the bearing is allowed! Just trying to save you some headaches and $$$ OPT

 

What would cause the clutch to not have slack when you pull up on the rod and piston? It moves back and forth when you turn it a little bit but when you pull up on the rod it has less slack back and forth.