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2002 Trail Boss 325 - valve adjustment question

Old Dec 2, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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Default 2002 Trail Boss 325 - valve adjustment question

Hi, I've got a 2002 Trial Boss 325 that has never had a valve adjustment. That may sound bad but the machine only has 200 or so miles on it. I do use it for yard work though so there is more hours on it I am sure. The local shop said it would be around $300 to adjust so I figured it is something I can tackle myself. I have the service manual which makes it pretty self explanetory, except what you have to take apart, i.e. body, to get to everyhting.

I guess any info you can share with me that will make it easier is appreciated. For instance, I know I have to detatch the gas tank but hopefully I can just move it aside leaving the fuel lines attached. Anything else I should know and/or be aware of? I know some of you guys have done it and have firsthand knowledge. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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$300?? A little on the steep side by about $250 or so!! Easiest way is just pull the spark plug(makes it easier to pull the recoil starter this way) The exhaust valve cap is easy to get to,the rear of the tank has to be lifted a little and blocked up to get access to intake valve cap. Just remove the caps,remove the 14mm bolt on top of recoil housing(this is inspection hole for timing) pull recoil starter slowly, watch for intake rocker arm to go down and as it comes UP shine a light in inspection hole in recoil housing and you will first see an F mark etched on flywheel for fire,then a little past this mark is T (for top dead center), this is where you check the valve clearance. Should be able to slip a .006 feeler gauge under intake and exhaust rocker arms with a slight drag on feeler gauge.If adjustment is needed,just loosen the rocker arm 10mm lock nut and slightly turn the adjuster and tighten nut,recheck with feeler gauge until it has a slight drag.
Dollar to a donut you won't have to touch the adjusters! The valves are usually a little on the loose side from the factory like the 500 engine is!
THERE! I've spent more time in telling you how to do it than it should take them!! Send some $$ my way! For that kind of money they want I would pick my tools back up! OPT
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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I wish I could get $300 for 20 minutes work. Some of these dealers are nothing but criminals.

That is almost like stealing in my book.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:15 PM
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From: Michigan
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Originally Posted by overdrive
i wish i could get $300 for 20 minutes work. Some of these dealers are nothing but criminals.

That is stealing in my book.
fify.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 06:57 PM
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mcordani's Avatar
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
$300?? A little on the steep side by about $250 or so!! Easiest way is just pull the spark plug(makes it easier to pull the recoil starter this way) The exhaust valve cap is easy to get to,the rear of the tank has to be lifted a little and blocked up to get access to intake valve cap. Just remove the caps,remove the 14mm bolt on top of recoil housing(this is inspection hole for timing) pull recoil starter slowly, watch for intake rocker arm to go down and as it comes UP shine a light in inspection hole in recoil housing and you will first see an F mark etched on flywheel for fire,then a little past this mark is T (for top dead center), this is where you check the valve clearance. Should be able to slip a .006 feeler gauge under intake and exhaust rocker arms with a slight drag on feeler gauge.If adjustment is needed,just loosen the rocker arm 10mm lock nut and slightly turn the adjuster and tighten nut,recheck with feeler gauge until it has a slight drag.
Dollar to a donut you won't have to touch the adjusters! The valves are usually a little on the loose side from the factory like the 500 engine is!
THERE! I've spent more time in telling you how to do it than it should take them!! Send some $$ my way! For that kind of money they want I would pick my tools back up! OPT
Thanks alot for all the help! So it sounds like doing this isn't a rush as more than likely they'll be set OK anyways. I'll get around to it some point this winter when I can't do much of anything else. Glad I decided to do it myself, after looking at the shop manual I didn't think the job warranted a $300 pricetag. You just seconded that. Thanks again!
 
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