Sportman 800 clutch install
#1
Sportman 800 clutch install
Since my bike developed a hard shifting issue that fixed itself after a week of sitting i have decided to replace/upgrade the clutch and belt. Also others have mentioned about a fiber washer with the one way bearing which i plan to replace also.
I havent yet pulled anything apart, but will in a week after the parts arrive. So my question is Whom has done this and what special tools did you need? a puller? This will be my first time poping the cover off and since i am second owner i have no history on when anything was done last. I am a fairly confident mechanic, but not an actual mechanic...i just like to play one in my own garage.
any tips or incit would be much appreciated.
I havent yet pulled anything apart, but will in a week after the parts arrive. So my question is Whom has done this and what special tools did you need? a puller? This will be my first time poping the cover off and since i am second owner i have no history on when anything was done last. I am a fairly confident mechanic, but not an actual mechanic...i just like to play one in my own garage.
any tips or incit would be much appreciated.
#2
You have to have a clutch puller and a spider tool to service the front clutch.You can get the puller for less than 30 bucks and some have even made their own. Just found the spider tool for about the same price as the puller at a couple places,about 60 bucks for the tools,plus the repair parts.Check around there may be some cheaper sources? OPT
#3
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The spider tool fits over the inner clutch spider where the six (6) clutch buttons are. While holding the spider tool on this,hold the rear of the clutch at the fins(Just your hand or with a helper Then hit it with the impact counter clock wise! After about 4 good impacts they usually break loose(at least for me they did!) STOP when it breaks loose,remove the tool and start to unscrew further. As it unscrews,be prepared to pull out the clutch buttons as they become exposed(rubber side of buttons go inwards). Then unscrew all the way and remove the spider. The clutch sheaths can now be pulled apart.
In front of the one way is a cap with a washer inside(if original,should be brass and usually worn) replacement is steel! Pull the cap off exposing the one way. Slowly pull the one way off and QUICKLY replace the fiber washer with a new one,slide the one way back partially on the shaft(this is to keep the small bearings and steel retainer springs from falling out!) lightly grease the shaft and slide it back on. Replace the cap with the new washer. Screw the spider back on about 3-4 turns lining up the X mark on the spider with the x on the clutch sheath(x mark by the counter weight) Allow room to reinstall buttons.Best way I found was using two small c-clamp vice grips to hold two sides of the buttons LIGHTLY in place,while guiding one set by hand! When lined up,hold inside sheath with both hands,the squeeze spider down. The c-clamps will pop off out of the way and the buttons are then seated in place! HOLD the spider and sheath tight and screw the back part of the clutch clockwise until it bottoms out! Then the clutch can then slide up and down! Hold rear of clutch again,place spider tool over the clutch and impact TIGHT!!! Replace spring and cover. This is my way of working on the front clutch and NEVER had a problem,BUT is hell on the hands! Once or twice ain't gonna kill you,but after 22 years it didn't help my arthritis any! My fingers are really tired now from typing! Again you can try it this way OR buy the clutch holder base along with the puller and spider tool! Good luck either way! OPT
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I've got a PCP-1 puller and a secondary tool from when I installed my EPI kit. I'd gladly let you borrow them but by the time you drive down here in that purdy lil' truck of yours you'll have spent $60 in gas