Question. There seems to be a lot of opinions and versions depending on year, of which Trans fluid to use. I still haven’t located a manual for a newly acquired 93 350L 2x4. What is the recommended transmission fluid? I have Bel Ray Gear saver 85W, that should be fine right?
...and also, which drain and fill plug? Is the trans fill, the plug on the front side of the trans, directly in line with the drive chain? (Its basically straight behind where the stator harness enters the case) Seems like a difficult place to access... Also, is the countershaft fill plug the one on the front side of engine, up at about 2 o'clock, directly behind the exhaust bend? As for CS, what is the suggested lube?

Thanks , any help is greatly appreciated!

 

I used full synthetic chain case oil in the tranny since the main component in the tranny is a chain. I use synthetic gear oil in the front diff since its main components are gear/cogs.

 

Don't use 85wt oil in the transmission!Too thick! Use either Polaris AGL or suitable oil designated for chain driven gear cases as TLC stated! The drain plug on the transmission(gear case) is right under the floor board on the side of the transmission,19 mm(or 3/4") drain bolt with a magnet on the end(don't be alarmed if you see a lot of sludge or shavings on the magnet). You can't miss this big bolt! The fill plug is a 9/16 plug located in front of the sprocket area on the old 93 350. Has a dipstick,but fill to the bottom of the fill plug threads. The counter balance drain is a 10mm bolt(opening in the bash plate for this) fill plug is as you stated at the very front of the atv at an angle (9/16") It only takes 75ccs of 30 wt oil by the manual,but you can use any multi weight such as 5/30wt OR 10-40. The later model 400 engines had a dip stick fill plug under the carb,but still retained the front fill plug also. OPT

 

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Yeah, I guess the 85W is more suited for gears rather than a chain. Being that it is basically just a chain, some ATF+4 would work fine then, shouldn’t it?

That fill plug for the trans is in an odd spot it seems (if I am on the same page as you) I have a long funnel, no biggie. Also looks just like a flanged bolt, not something that would have a dipstick under it…I need to look closer at this when I get home.

Appreciate the info - Thanks again!

 

The flange bolt has a dip stick built on the end of it! Just use a long funnel and fill to the bottom of the fill threads! DON'T know about atf +4 in the transmission? Just use Polaris AGL and you won't have to worry! You only have to change it once a year or 1000 miles,cheaper to use the right stuff than have problems! Same for the hubs use Polaris Demand Drive hub fluid rather than atf, bottle lasts a long time and won't have that burnt smell when you change it! Change the hub fluid at 50 hrs rather than what any manual says,parts will last longer! OPT

 

Great, thanks! got the trans drained and filled. It was so full, when I opened the fill plug, it ran out everywhere! It wasnt too dirty though, so that was good Now, opened the CS fill plug and it oozed out too. So it has fluid which is good (looks nasty though) BUT, I dont see the obvious drain location for it. I thought it was one of the 2 10mm nex to the starter body, opened the more logical one, and a slight amount of oil seapage was there, but no drain. Wonder if maybe being such a small opening, if it is plugged? The only other obvious drain is the one on the outside, which goes in at an angle, right in front of the starter gear--I dont even know why that one is there unless you accidentally filled your stator housing then wanted to drain it

 

Underneath is a big drain plug for the recoil housing to remove any water (9/16") then may or may not have a 10mm drain for the starter,then over from it is the 10mm counter balancer drain,then the one toward the center is the crank case drain! As long as the small amount of oil for the c/b isn't milky you're ok! If milky colored then water pump seals are leaking! Only should have a very small amount of oil when drained. Just holds 75ccs of oil. You probably opened the crank case drain! Try the other 10 mm bolt right past the starter! OPT

 

I pulled both those small bolts(10mm) the one near the rear of the starter(crankcase?) only seaped a very small amount of oil and gas. the other one (near the front of the starter) leaked just a small amount of oil. but the filler(9/16) leaks oil as soon as I opened it. doesnt look milky though, so thats good. The only 2 bolts that line up with a hole in the skid plate are the one near the rear of the starter(that leaked a very small amount of oil/gas) and one of the 3 bolts on the front motor mount I am going to take a pic of this, maybe that will make it easier.

At least there is fluid in there..even if I cant drain it! Changed the trans fluid got the plastics back on and took it for a quick spin for the first time. Runs real good!

These machines are funny..There will be a torx bolt, then a phillips head screw, then a metric bolt then a SAE bolt...I dragged out all kind of tools for this thing

Appreciate the good info OPT

 

That's why you need a lot of tools to work on Polaris atvs! motors for the most part are metric,almost all the frame, clutch, and suspension bolts are standard with a few torx bolts and screws thrown in for good measure! The only ones with completely metric bolts are the little ones from Taiwan,Korea.We bitched about this for years as mechanics. They are staring to get their act together on the newer ones somewhat! OPT

 

Ha, ha..no kidding!
So here is a pic, there are only 3 drains under there. I highlighted the bolts that line up with skid plate holes, in yellow. the top one is the 3rd motor mount bolt(hidden behind the frame crossmember in this pic)