Is it better to install Spring Pre-Load Adjusters or Heavy-Duty Front Springs to help correct the front end dive when braking and sag on the front?

 

basicly your choice. alot of people have posted they went the heavier spring route and a few have done the "home made spacer" route. the adjustable spacer i think has 3 settings and a couple that have mentioned them say they just use the highest setting.

 

I went with the Polaris HD springs and have loved the fact my front end doesn't bottom out anymore. They also make the steering that much easier too.

 

X2 on springs!

 

After reading this post and a couple of others I ordered a set of springs yesterday from the dealer so that will be next week-end's project on the front end of my 500 Touring. I only have 650 miles or so on it and really did not pay much attention to the fact that the top of the front tires tipped in so much. It does like to dive under hard braking or really squat when using the winch.

Grabbing a couple of inches of height and more stiffness will not be a bad thing.

I plan on taking some before and after pictures and if they turn out I will post them. This is also a good time to change the oil in the front diffy so I will tackle that at the same time.

Good info on the forum.

 

most if not all the older sportsman models w/ this spring/strut set up ends up having the springs being weak just from normal wear and under it's own weight(stupid design) and causing the extra hard sterring, bottoming out tipping tires. it's like riving a new bike once you have fixed the front end sag.

 

The stock springs seem okay until you mount a winch or carry something on the front rack and then the HD springs are nice to have. They work well.

 

I only have 265 miles on mine and the front end is sagging..it dives and caves in during hard corners. I ordered highlifter HD springs all the way around and look forward to trying them out next week

 

Question regarding the install. I was at the dealer today to check on my springs but they will nto be in until tomorrow. I bumped into the mechanic and he warned me about being carefull after removing the top storage box to get at the strut bolts. What he said was to be carefull in twisting on the strut to get the springs to clear the mounting bracket at the top. If you pull on the axel it can pull partly out of the front diffy and away from the cage and because it is hidden in the boot you will not see that you have disconnected it.

Just wondering if there are pictures or a sticky that explain the procedure or if any of you guys that have done the change have any words of advice.

Thanx

 

Yep, did that on mine, without thinking I tilted the top end out from under the fender and the axle spline slid out from the outer joint. I then had to take the big end of the boot loose so I could get the splines to align and slide in. I think the best way to prevent this is to take the center nut off and let the axle slide out of the strut so it doesn't slide off the axle.

Fred