2000-01 Polaris Xpedition. It was running just great. first pull everytime and it ran forever. I had electric starter issues. New starter turned over the motor just fine but it never could start it. when i used the electric starter i noticed it did not spark at all! thats issue number one. So an HD mechanic cousin thought "it works for cars" and ran a hotwire to the coil from the battery. still no spark using the electric starter but the coil fried in the process. replaced with a new coil. Now it still dont spark at all! i tried using the pull start and still no spark. Checked all that i could and i have no clue why it wont spark now. Stator blown? CDI? Voltage reg? Battery is brand new! all the lights and stuff work. i can still use the electric starter (although no spark there still). I called Polaris and they said "there are no saftey switches. you dont have to hold the brake or anything"
So after jumping the coil, what else if anything fried? can i test the CDI, stator or voltage reg without a running motor?
I have a service manual for it too i should add.
So after jumping the coil, what else if anything fried? can i test the CDI, stator or voltage reg without a running motor?
I have a service manual for it too i should add.
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
Just look at the schematic at the back of the service manual and will show the stator and coil resistance checks. OPT
Stator resistance;
Capacitor GRN to BLK/R 0.417 OHMS book 446
GRN to R 3.4 OHMS book 3.2
GRN to ground no connection
Trigger coil W to W/R 99.5 OHMS book 97
W to ground no connection
Battery charge Y to Y/BRN 0.5 OHMS book 0.17
coil Y/R to Y/BRN 0.7 OHMS book 0.17
Y to ground no connection
Ignition coil secondary (no cap) 5.92 OHMS book 6300??? (is that right?)
All this was measured with my digital multi meter. the only one i see out to lunch is the Capacitor wires GRN to BLK/R. well that and the secondary ignition coil. The coil was replaced. brand new and all wires were cleaned and put back where they all were.
Capacitor GRN to BLK/R 0.417 OHMS book 446
GRN to R 3.4 OHMS book 3.2
GRN to ground no connection
Trigger coil W to W/R 99.5 OHMS book 97
W to ground no connection
Battery charge Y to Y/BRN 0.5 OHMS book 0.17
coil Y/R to Y/BRN 0.7 OHMS book 0.17
Y to ground no connection
Ignition coil secondary (no cap) 5.92 OHMS book 6300??? (is that right?)
All this was measured with my digital multi meter. the only one i see out to lunch is the Capacitor wires GRN to BLK/R. well that and the secondary ignition coil. The coil was replaced. brand new and all wires were cleaned and put back where they all were.
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
These resistance measurements are + or - 20% so it seems the stator and coil are ok,BUT resistance readings are not always 100% accurate. Seems you could be down to the cdi.If the cdi wire was connected to to the coil when battery voltage was applied to the coil then the cdi could have been affected or it could be the problem to begin with.Sorry misread the 0.417! Sure it's not 417 ohms? OPT
well i just went out a triple checked that one reading. it is what it is. 0.417 OHMS. too weird. I thought it might have been the CDI, and i had even looked on Ebay for one. Now that being said, i know that my machine is compatible with others like sportsman, Magnum and scrambler. But is the CDI compatible too?
i tried to test the CDI but according to the book my digital multi meter wont do the trick i need a Fluke 73 digital multitester or anything else that allows peak voltage test to be measured accurately.
For what i did measure i tried to take an average peak reading but it was very hard. nothing is consistent. Is there a way to bypass the CDI? i know its probably not well advised but if i get a spark, it would be a true reading to tell me the CDI is shot.
i tried to test the CDI but according to the book my digital multi meter wont do the trick i need a Fluke 73 digital multitester or anything else that allows peak voltage test to be measured accurately.
For what i did measure i tried to take an average peak reading but it was very hard. nothing is consistent. Is there a way to bypass the CDI? i know its probably not well advised but if i get a spark, it would be a true reading to tell me the CDI is shot.
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
You don't need a Fluke meter! I had a Snap On which was close to a Fluke and the readings were the same compared to another techs meter. If you are showing 0.417 instead of 417 ohms then the capacitor charge coil(the main stator body is bad) Think you found the problem. Don't try anything with the cdi or it could end up like the first coil!. It is a lot more sensitive! Check here on replacement stators. http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/p...f91a033bfdc2de IF they don't show the Expedition 325 or 425 you have just give em a call.Plus cdis are specific to the model.. OPT
Quote:
Plus cdis are specific to the model..
NOOOO!!! hehe. i looked at the site you suggested and ya looks like i have to call them. This is where i cry. So for the hell of it, i guess replace the stator and for the fun of it a CDI. they are SUPER hard to find.Plus cdis are specific to the model..
I was hoping that you, sir, would reply to this thread and your help is MUCH appreciated. thank you
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
Try the stator first! No sense replacing a cdi unless you're sure about it. Good luck OPT
Well I replaced the stator and set it all up as per the instructions. Still nothing. I guess the CDI must be shot. Expensive process of elimination. Is there anywhere I can buy a new aftermarket CDI?
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Retired and loving it!
No aftermarket cdi available that I'm aware of and about the cheapest places online are Cycle Parts Warehouse and Cheap Cycle Parts. OPT