Toy hauler Suspesion ?s
#13
I would start out anyplace that sells trailers. From experience, places that sell livestock/horse trailers generally know more about this sort of thing than places that sell snowmobile type trailers.
You could try a search engine. Look up Reese, Valley, & Putnam. I know there are more, those are just the first ones that I could think of.
You could try a search engine. Look up Reese, Valley, & Putnam. I know there are more, those are just the first ones that I could think of.
#15
You can buy the Equal-i-zer brand right on line. I talked to them first on the phone and they were very helpful in determining the correct amount of hitch drop needed for your truck/trailer setup to get the correct ride height.
I have been looking into towing/payload specs quite a bit lately and have come to the conclusion that you need something more than factory heavy-duty springs if you are going to do a resonable amount of towing, or are going cross-country. Make sure you use at load range E tires pumped up to maximum specs for towing. My Michelins say 50 lb., but for loading Michelin remommends 65/75 lb. The tires can be your weakest link in a heavy duty setup if they are not the correct load range. Load range C's are ok for local duty, but not for over the highway continuous use.
I have found that for towing at highway speeds with a full race 8' wide race tag-along trailer you definitely need sway control and weight distribution to stop any wobble. Towing without at speed with a tag trailer is asking for trouble eventually. It's quite different with a gooseneck or fifth-wheel setup which eliminates most of the shaking/swaying.
I've beeen doing lots of research on vehicle towing lately and am in the process of buying a new Chevy Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab with The Duramax Diesel / Allison trans. combo fairly soon. I'm still going to install the heavy duty Air-Lift bags on the rear. Just because it's 3/4 ton does not mean it needs nothing to either tow or haul heavy weights up to payload or gross weight at highway speeds. All the new 3/4 and 1 ton trucks need help in this department if you are going to be towing for any distance, spending hours on the road.
With the right setup towing cross-country can be a pleasure instead of a nightmare.
It's a little different than hauling for 25 miles or hauling a ton of gravel back home.
You may want to go to a local rv center to ask their recommendations on a good towing setup for your rig. Most are quite knowledgeable and can point out any weakness in your particular setup.
Equalizer is at www.equalizerhitch.com
I have been looking into towing/payload specs quite a bit lately and have come to the conclusion that you need something more than factory heavy-duty springs if you are going to do a resonable amount of towing, or are going cross-country. Make sure you use at load range E tires pumped up to maximum specs for towing. My Michelins say 50 lb., but for loading Michelin remommends 65/75 lb. The tires can be your weakest link in a heavy duty setup if they are not the correct load range. Load range C's are ok for local duty, but not for over the highway continuous use.
I have found that for towing at highway speeds with a full race 8' wide race tag-along trailer you definitely need sway control and weight distribution to stop any wobble. Towing without at speed with a tag trailer is asking for trouble eventually. It's quite different with a gooseneck or fifth-wheel setup which eliminates most of the shaking/swaying.
I've beeen doing lots of research on vehicle towing lately and am in the process of buying a new Chevy Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab with The Duramax Diesel / Allison trans. combo fairly soon. I'm still going to install the heavy duty Air-Lift bags on the rear. Just because it's 3/4 ton does not mean it needs nothing to either tow or haul heavy weights up to payload or gross weight at highway speeds. All the new 3/4 and 1 ton trucks need help in this department if you are going to be towing for any distance, spending hours on the road.
With the right setup towing cross-country can be a pleasure instead of a nightmare.
It's a little different than hauling for 25 miles or hauling a ton of gravel back home.
You may want to go to a local rv center to ask their recommendations on a good towing setup for your rig. Most are quite knowledgeable and can point out any weakness in your particular setup.
Equalizer is at www.equalizerhitch.com
#16
Jack i looked at there site man are they Spendy Take a look at reese or ridgid hitch also hidden hitch 305.00 all parts included Way cheaper Even has sway control. I am going to get the reese hitch by ridged hitch 800 lb Tounge wieght with 10,000lb weight rating just over 300.00 cash I have heard nothing bad about these setups so I am going to give it a try. thanks For the info.
#17
I use an equalizer on my '97 Yukon to pull our camping trailer. For 2 quads on a utility trailer I don't bother.
But the big load of the camping trailer has trashed the brakes on the Yukon, and I've just blown the tranny with only 66,000 miles on it.
1/2 ton just doesn't cut it when you are talking towing. 3/4 tons have bigger brakes and no delicate overdrive transmissions. Of course gas mileage goes from 17 to 7 when towing, and the 3/4 ton without overdrive isn't going to get much better than 12 mpg without a load. I think my Yukon pulls the utility trailer and quads okay,
700lb.+700lb.+1000lb. So anything over 3,000 lbs,
even though it is rated for 6,000 lbs, is going to trash that $30,000 SUV. Mine's in the shop right now, I'm expecting a nasty repair bill.
Silly Later,,,,Fourlix
But the big load of the camping trailer has trashed the brakes on the Yukon, and I've just blown the tranny with only 66,000 miles on it.
1/2 ton just doesn't cut it when you are talking towing. 3/4 tons have bigger brakes and no delicate overdrive transmissions. Of course gas mileage goes from 17 to 7 when towing, and the 3/4 ton without overdrive isn't going to get much better than 12 mpg without a load. I think my Yukon pulls the utility trailer and quads okay,
700lb.+700lb.+1000lb. So anything over 3,000 lbs,
even though it is rated for 6,000 lbs, is going to trash that $30,000 SUV. Mine's in the shop right now, I'm expecting a nasty repair bill.
Silly Later,,,,Fourlix