If the black/red wired zeroed out on the ohm meter,then the wire would be "shorted" to ground which it's not. Infinity is a continuous loop just like the sideways 8 symbol.Doesn't sound like this wire is a problem. OPT

 

I pulled all 4 black wires off since the birdsnest was impossible to trace and the limiter is behind the oil tank. Still nothing. The stator was purchased from ebay and I have not heard anything back. Ugg.

 

With Ebay you have to be careful! That's why I recommend either a dealer(higher) or a place like this.New OEM Style Polaris Stator - Aftermarket Parts Store
OPT

 

This stator looks nothing like the one I currently have. The one I have only has 3 lighting coils and a trapezoid looking exciter.

I see that this is labeled as "new style". I am guessing this is probably for a reason. I am going to order one and see what I can do with the other.

 

This was just for an example as to what they have. Stators did change during this period and had the pulse/exciter coil out side of the stator,but keep with your style. The harness probably wouldn't work along with a newer updated flywheel would be needed! You can give em a call. Plus check out "Ricky" stators. http://www.rickystator.com/
OPT

 

The higher output Ricky Stator units can open the door for adding lights/winch/or an under seat subwoofer.....boomsha, boomsha. As OPT stated they're good folks.

 

I have an entire new stator on the way. In the mean time took the old exciter coil off the stator that had the broken wire. The broken wire was as it wraps around the lighting coil and the exciter itself looks fine and was working prior.

In helps to make this much simpler to diagnose, what are the electrical requirements to make this thing run. For arguments sake I would like to strip all the wires off the panel and clean it up along with the ends that it attaches to but while I have them all off I figured it would be much easier to just plug in what absolutely needed to be.

Here is what I assume.
1. The ground on the stator that mounts just behind the fly wheel. I assume I do not need the yellow and yellow/Red lighting coils for anything to test for spark.
2. I need the 3 plug wire from the exciter to plug into the CDI
3. The blue wire from the CDI to plug into the coil but the black wire needs to remain unplugged.
4. The coil needs to be plugged in the spark plug and the plug grounded to the block.
5. All the brown wires need to be hooked up.
6. the blue white engine switch.


I know this sounds like the retarded version but the frustration is mounting.

 

I guess you mean the blue/white coil wire.The exciter wiring is a continuous wrap and any broken/damage wire in the wax coated body can keep it from having spark. If you just want to test it,see if you can tie the broken wire up enough to see if it has spark. OPT

 

Getting closer.. I rigged up the old exciter and rechecked everything. Seems the OHM reading from the red/black wire to ground was actually showing resistance on the "second" new one. Now all I have to do is wait for the new exciter and go from there. Thanks for all your help.. I will update this when I get everything figured out.

 

Houston we have liftoff!!
I think I burnt up the CDI messing around trying to troubleshoot the stator issue. New stator, CDI and its running again. Thanks for all your help guys..

For anyone with similar issues. The test that showed exactly the error was from the black/Red to ground just like OPT said!! It showed resistance which means all my spark was going to ground.