If you were able to keep the spring in both the helix and the bottom clutch half,then turned the sheath to line up the splines and felt pressure from the spring tightening, hopefully you're ok. I just never did it this way! You'll find out pretty quick if it's right or not. OPT

 

yeah, just made the marks, had the spring in both #2 holes and had to force or "preload" to get to the mark we made....i should be good...fingers crossed lol...im gonna drop the primary off at the shop in the am and let them mess with the buttons

hopefully they have it done by the end of the day so i can ride tomorrow...gonna be in the 40s woohoo might even get to give her a wash too lol

 

update..did the secondary myself and it works great(ramps did show obvious wear)...still wondering what difference its makes if i put the spring in the different holes and/or "preload more than 1/3??OPT??

when i picked up the primary the mechanic said the buttons were pretty close to stock width so he didnt really say i needed new buttons(althought i could see some very slight wear)..he put the new 1s in as i ordered, i slapped er back together and all is good..

btw, i changed oil n filter and gearbox lube while i had it apart...i pulled a brain fart and poured the whole bottle of gear lube in it...i drained some out but is there any potential harm if it a lil too full??

 

Different spring positions just allow softer or harder up shifts and down shifts. 1/3 turn is all that's recommended along with with standard 2-2 position on the spring. You won't get much more than 3/4 turn before the spring distorts or jumps out of the hole position anyway. It would just make the clutch stiffer,harder to operate correctly if you go past what's recommended,plus could cause the spring to break over time. A little overfull on the gear case shouldn't hurt. Any excess oil would just foam up and go out of the vent tube if you have too much. OPT

 

thanx OPT!