intermittent 4 wheel drive
#1
Hello all,
I have a 96' sportsman 500 that has been giving me fits. It has new fluid, new, new armature. Its was working fine when off the ground, but while riding, it rarely engages. What could be some possible problems? Cant seem to figure it out. If the nut is too tight on the bearings would that give it issues? Any info would be nice. Other side works great!
I have a 96' sportsman 500 that has been giving me fits. It has new fluid, new, new armature. Its was working fine when off the ground, but while riding, it rarely engages. What could be some possible problems? Cant seem to figure it out. If the nut is too tight on the bearings would that give it issues? Any info would be nice. Other side works great!
#2
The 96 Sportsman still had that funky flex lock hub nut and circlip that they recommended that you should replace if removed! I never did! The manual gives you a "rolling nut torque" to go by which didn't work too well on getting the hub snug enough without too much torque. After several attempts of these that I tried the rolling nut torque sequence on:Torque to 400 inch pounds,back off 1/2 to 3/4 turns, torque to between 75 to 150 inch pounds( when you can see the nut rotate with the shaft),then add 100 inch pounds to this reading! What I usually ended up with on the final torque that worked was 20 foot pounds! Try this torque setting while you spin the rotor,make sure you stake the nut into the key way slot,then replace the circlip on the shaft. Later models finally went to the castle nut and cotter pin that torqued at 12 foot pounds! If this doesn't help you may have other issues in this side on the internal parts. OPT
#3
So it is possible that if I have the nut too tight it will affect the hilliard hub engagement? I will have to try and back that off. I am not sure what you mean by "staking the nut". I did press the end of the nut so that it would grab the shaft a little better. Had that side, left when on the machine, loosen up on me. It works perfect with all 4 wheels off the ground. Real strange. Thank you for your imput. Always great to get helpful info!!
#4
Yes,having the nut too tight can affect the awd function.Pry the end of the nut up that you bent down,back off and try the 20 foot pounds torque,then stake the nut back down and see if it helps. Staking the nut is what you did by bending the thin end of the nut to keep it tight on the shaft or from loosening up. Off the ground there is no load on the machine and the awd will engage easier. Try the atv up against a post or on some loose ground to see if the front kicks in afterwards. OPT
#6
Shows 100 foot pounds on the pdf I have (seems a little tight) and lug nuts 15 foot pounds on the 9/16" nuts,50 pounds on the 13/16" lug nuts. But I can almost guarantee you most shops don't torque rear axle nuts or lug nuts or even front lug nuts unless they are ITP aluminum wheels which have to be torqued! They just impact em with air guns and after a few years you kind of get a feel for it.. OPT
#7
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#9
Polaris #5211148 Plates are $7.36 each at Cycle Parts Warehouse,plus may be cheaper just to get them at the dealer because of shipping costs.Here's the link to the John Deere awd interchange parts courtesy of member Kerbbirds.http://forums.atvconnection.com/pola...ml#post3075602
This for the HUB activated awd system,not a centralized awd system that you are looking for.Look at your other post for your awd breakdown. Plus please don't double post on the same question.It confuses old people like me!
This for the HUB activated awd system,not a centralized awd system that you are looking for.Look at your other post for your awd breakdown. Plus please don't double post on the same question.It confuses old people like me!
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