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96 magnum 425 4x4 bogs then speeds up then bogs again...

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Old May 3, 2013 | 05:25 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by HawgWild
You had the carb off right? Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I would spray some carb cleaner around the carb as its running to see if it sucks it in revs up.
That's a good (and simple to test) idea. Thanks HawgWild!
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Yes it's best to have two feeler gauges on the exhaust rocker arm. This way you set one valve clearance then go to the next one with the feeler gauge still between the adjuster and and valve stem. This keeps the rocker arm from "cocking" which has been known on some machines to throw valve spring "keepers" which can cause a mess of an engine. If you want to try to bypass the fuel pump,give it a try. Just block off the vacuum line from the carb and see if gravity is enough. 425 magnums seemed to me that they always ran a little rich as the years went by and a 137.5 main shouldn't hurt. The choke should affect how it runs when you open it unless the brass end is partially seized in the opening below the diaphragm. You can make sure by removing the diaphragm and pull the choke lever. The brass end should move back and forth with the choke lever.Another area is to pull the block off plug covering the fuel mixture screw and see how many turns out,but this mainly affects the idle. Just adjust the choke at the carb. It has a 10mm lock nut on the cable,loosen it and adjust the 8 mm cable end to where you have about 1/4" play at the lever.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Plus check simple things like the air filter and prefilter.
Thanks once again OPT for your very informative replies. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #13  
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Default oh no!

I got home this evening to disassemble and clean the carb out for the 2nd time and look what I found...
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One of the posts holding the float pin has completely snapped off! I KNOW that when I reinserted the pin during the rebuild I was very careful and it was not broken then. My only guess (however odd) is that it must have snapped sometime while I was riding. The float has a small amount of slop (side-side and up-down), but it doesn't seem too extreme. I know this might be a lame question, but could this be the cause of the bogging/surging cycle I'm experiencing at the high end of the throttle?
So here's some new questions...
1) Is there a way to fix this or is the entire carb shot?
2) If I do need to replace the carb, should I go with something different or stick to the original?
Thanks for any help!

Edit: would a carb off a 95 work? I can get one relatively cheap
 
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Old May 4, 2013 | 07:59 AM
  #14  
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You're not the first to have done this. That's why I used a small pin punch and held both posts when I punched the pin out. As far as repairing ones for customers,what I've used is JB Weld 5 minute epoxy and have had good luck.Just make sure you use a q-tip to cover the broken post with the epoxy and none gets in the way of the float bowl gasket or would interfere with the bowl cover.Worst case scenario you can buy a used one on Ebay,but try to save this one first. This could be the source of all your surging problems..http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-ATV-CARBURATOR-FITS-THE-4-STROKE-ATVs-MIKUNI-CARB-MAGNUM-SPORTSMAN-/390574373062?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af00bf8c6&vxp=mtr
 
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