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Old Jul 12, 2013 | 02:04 PM
  #41  
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Ok u no if there any way could rebuild the pump cause I can maybe make parts I can use a cnc machine an pretty good at it.I've made many parts for other engines. I'm just really short on money I count pennies lol who dont anymore
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 01:07 PM
  #42  
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Just get a manual so you can see what needs to be done. No need to start fabrication any parts. Just a normal seal and bearing replacement needed in most cases if the w/p is leaking into the counter balance cavity.. The step by step pictures in the manual alone are worth a thousand words as the saying goes...
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #43  
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Ok I got partly apart can I get to the water pump without removing the stator I got all the bolts out behind the flywheel an can partialy remove case an its dripping black oil is that suppose to be c/b fluid? Also found the exhaust has no seals. I want to remove as little stuff as I can an i have a repair manual ordered but it gonna take to long to get here it got put on back order
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 08:25 PM
  #44  
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Oh an do I have to remove starter?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 01:23 AM
  #45  
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Ok got water pump figured out. But have a different question the exhaust pipe gets hot an was wondering could i wrap it in header wraps gonna repaint it
 
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Old Jul 15, 2013 | 05:06 AM
  #46  
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If the springs are stretched you might want to replace them if the pipe is leaking. Yes you can repaint the exhaust if you wish,I'd use high heat paint. I've seen some 2 stroke header pipes that people have wrapped also that didn't like the heat,but some say it allows more moisture and corrosion. To each his own on this one. Do what you have to do.. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1996&fveh=5419
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 01:27 PM
  #47  
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I'm gonna use high heat paint first then wrap it afterwards. I ordered a complete gasket kit wit seals cost alot more than I thought but I have every gasket for the engine. Don't half to replace pump its just a bad gasket. Anyways can I run regular motor oil in the case cause that's what it looks like they had in it
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 01:40 PM
  #48  
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If you're that far I'd replace the two w/p seals and bearing!! A lot of trouble to have to go back in for. The manual calls for 100 ccs (little over 3 ounces) of 30 wt oil or multigrade if you wish. Just fill slowly until it hits the dip stick level.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 02:15 PM
  #49  
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The kit I bought has all seals an gaskets. I did that because I dont want to take it apart again im replacing everything that's easy to get to even replacing head gasket again. If it doesn't work after this its gonna be goodbye Polaris an hello Yamaha
 
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Old Jul 16, 2013 | 02:36 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by catfisherpro
The kit I bought has all seals an gaskets. I did that because I dont want to take it apart again im replacing everything that's easy to get to even replacing head gasket again. If it doesn't work after this its gonna be goodbye Polaris an hello Yamaha
Make sure you replace the seals the same way they came out of the w/p housing. The two seals are different, plus don't cover up the small hole in the housing .. You sound like you're ready to plant a bomb under the old 400 2 smoke.. Yamaha's are good machines. I had an FJ1100 and a TT600 way back when
 
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