I started to get my 2007 quad ready for the season but I think it needs a carb cleaning.

After an oil change, spark plug and fresh battery I sucked as much gas as I could out of the tank, put fresh fuel in and let her warm up. I took off down the street and as soon as I gave her throttle she died out. Problem repeated until it got difficult to start. I am pretty sure the carb is dirty.

How the heck do I take the carb off this thing?

 

You've got to remove the air box,remove the tank bolts,block the tank up a a bit to be able to get to the top nut on the carb mounting bracket.Loosen the carb at the intake manifold, remove the fuel,vacuum and vent lines and then you can wiggle the carb out enough with the throttle and choke cable attached to remove the float bowl. If you've let it sit,might as well install a new carb kit if you've gone to this much trouble. Once you have to do this,next time you'll remember to keep stabilizer in the fuel! Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

I don't know how much different they are from the old 325 that I had, but it's not easy. Seems the tank and cab plastics are one piece now if I remember right. This is what I had to do on my old one. Take off the seat and take out the airbox. Take off the tank plastic and the tank. Side panels came off too. If I remember correctly, that should get you to the carb. Take off the boots, and the one bracket on the middle of the frame. Carb should be loose except for hoses and cables.

OPT can give you the scoop on what the steps might be for your model, but you can kind of take this and just look over yours and see what will and won't work.

 

That's what I get for taking to long to type.

 

Would it be worth trying to run some seafoam through it first?

I don't see any carb kits for the 2007 Trail Boss on the market. Other than a bowl gasket and seat, what should I replace?

Any particular stabilizer you would recommend? I store the quad for a good 6 months out of the year. Thought I drained the tank but obviously I was wrong...

 

Kits on Ebay go up to the 2005 model,but the needle and seat and possibly the main and pilot jet are the same along with the other parts. In any case it costs less for the kit than just buying a needle and seat and bowl gasket alone from a dealer or online oem parts place.http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-TRAIL-BOSS-330-CARBURETOR-CARB-REPAIR-KIT-03-05-/290530901900?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a4fdbf8c&vxp=mtrAs far as a fuel preservative everyone has their favorite,but I like the blue Marine Stabil as it's stronger that the regular Stabil and have some friends that like Star Tron enzyme treatment for the crappy ethanol fuel we have today that just attracts water and messes up carbs.

 

Oh no OPT! It seems that I have another problem. I was going to run some fresh gas and seafoam through her before trying yo disassemble the carb, so I vacuumed out the tank, filled it and went to start it: nothing happened.

When I turn the key on and slide kill switch it to RUN, the NEUTRAL light comes on for four or five seconds, then goes out. Over and over again. Turning key to start does nothing. No clicks, no nothing. What happened?

 

Sounds like,if you have a new battery as you said and all connections are tight,that you could have a faulty ecm module. It can cause hard cranking along with draining batteries down,etc. Check the voltage on the battery,if low charge it up enough to get the atv cranked and at an idle. If it's not charging 14 volts back to the battery,then sounds like you need to replace the ecm along with a carb rebuild as they can fail at any time.Item #18 Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

I can't get it to crank at all, even with a full battery. Randomly once out of every twenty or so tries it will bump slightly. Other that that when you turn the key it makes no attempt, no noise, nothing. Neutral light stays on for five seconds then turns off. I can try to upload a video if that helps.

Is there a way to reset the ECM or isolate it so I know that that's the problem before I throw a $200 part at it?

Also, my ECM is a SurePower 4011721, but the ECM in the link you provided lists a 4011831?

Thanks for all your help OPT!

 

Here is the link to the video:
https://www.cubby.com/pl/VID_2013112...9ae185e8f5e686