Check first that the shift levers(belcranks) are tight on the transmission.On the linkage adjustment have the gear shift lever in neutral. Loosen the 10mm lock nuts on the linkage ball ends at the gear box shift arms. Then remove the 2 nuts holding the linkage ends to the shift levers. Turn the linkage ends to where they fall straight into the shift lever arms with NO resistance.Tighten the ball end locknuts,replace the two other nuts and see if you have a positive low and forward range with out binding or grinding. If while you have the linkage arms off the shift box and you notice a lot of play on the lever,this could be the problem. Worn parts in the shift box.Shift levers,springs,etc. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Plus even a simple fluid change in the box may help. Cover screws are under pressure so be careful. Just clean out the box and fill with 0w40 oil until it barely covers the shift levers. Too much oil can cause stiff shifting and hydro locking.

 

ya check the levers for sure, mine would not stay in lo gear and it was the adj. rod, no my 95 400 I didn't need to splice any thing just move the gray/white from the AWD switch on the board to red/white blade on the board, there are extras. these things have homemade wiring harness with parts from AUTO ZONE, which at first being a jap bike guy I thought was a notch above Chinese bikes but after working and fixing this thing (it had a lot of broken stuff) the wiring was easy I had all the wire stuff I my shop. I don't see how by passing the switch on the gear box can heart.

 

Yes on the 98 models and earlier you can bypass the gear position switch in the box,jump it to the red/white power wire in the circuit board,but I've seen some owners that have and had problems with magnetizing armature plates in the hubs. Same thing as some owners that leave the awd switch on constantly that didn't have any problems with the switch.Just not a good idea. Didn't really have a problem on grounding issues at the hub coils until the awd went through the speedos,then all sorts of problems.Worst thing Polaris could have done along with having the reverse limiters built into the speedo on the later models also,plus here's someone's bypass for this:









"One of the main reasons you would want to do this mod is because when you get stuck and the only way out is reverse, it is impossible to pull the ATV backwards while applying throttle AND pushing the override button. It is also very helpful when you use your ATV to plow and need 4wd every time you back up with the weight of the plow hanging off the front.

This mod will give you 4wd and full power when in reverse without having to push the override button. This is for all Polaris Sportsman models with the new style Speedo (2003) and Sp700, 02. Continue down below for pre 03 model instructions.

The problem with the new style, is that the function button for the Speedo is combined with the override button and it is not as straight forward as the old style Speedo. Doing it this way everything works as it should exactly the way it did before the mod.

The nicest thing about this mod is that you do not need to cut any wires or drill any holes.

You will need to purchase a standard 4 pin, 12v relay, 4 pieces of 16 gauge wire about 8" long, 4 female crimp on spade connectors (for connection of wires to relay), and 4 wire splice connectors. (they are usually blue and you simply insert the wires and squeeze with pliers, then fold back the protective locking cover)

Open the pod and locate the wiring harness coming from the Speedo.

Relay terminal #30 connect to Polaris brown wire
Relay terminal #87 connect to Polaris wire gray/orange
Relay terminal #86 connect to Polaris wire red/white
Relay terminal #85 connect to Polaris wire purple.

Use dielectric grease at all electrical connections to prevent corrosion in the long run or even better, liquid tape.

To test, simply put it in reverse with the engine running, if the Speedo flashes the word "SLOW" (just like it did before the mod, when you pressed the override button) you did everything correct."

 

thanks OPT, did u go to school to learn this stuff or on the job

 

Both! Plus if you do this long enough you can't help but learn a little bit even if you didn't want to in the first place..

 

Great information, guys. Thanks so much.
I haven't gotten out to the garage yet, but I'll report back when I do. It's just been SO cold; expecting a blizzard, then -50º today.

 

I went out to the garage and did some work on my machine today. I replaced the rest of my indicator lights and the neutral light just stays on, so that's weird.

Anyhow, I think my 4wd problem is mostly in my switch. When I bypassed it by putting a jumper wire between the 2 grey terminals on the connectors that go down to the hubs and hooked it to power, I have 3wd! Not perfect, but a step in the right direction, anyhow!
I am wondering if my hub coil is just pooped out on my other wheel. It's the one that had the torn apart wire that I soldered. The solder is strong and proper, but I just wonder if there was more unseen damage to the wire.

There's really not much to the switch, so I don't know what could be bad in there. I repaired the switches on the other handlebar with all the check ***** and springs, etc, but this one looked to be in better condition. Who knows.

I figured out where to start on my Low range problem...

NO stinking linkage! Who removes that sort of thing!? Since it's gone, I have to wonder WHY. I hope it's just the linkage and not some other weird reason.

I'll keep you posted! Wish me luck!

 

I replaced the low range linkage with a piece of Skidoo steering linkage. It fit perfectly and the low range works just fine. Thankfully!!