Hey everyone, I have some issues I would love input on. I borrowed a 97 Xplorer 400 to plow my driveway. It has roughly 500 miles on it and has mostly sat for the last ten years aside from a couple startups a year.
When I picked it up, there was no coolant in the reservoir. The owner said it ran fine and wasn't sure why it was empty. I filled the reservoir and after about 10 minutes of light plowing, the temp light came on. I found out the radiator was almost empty and therefore wasn't pulling coolant from the reservoir. I filled the radiator, ran it again and the temp light came on as well as leaked coolant. No soft lines were leaking so I researched a bit and found the water pump seals have a tendency to go bad. I know almost nothing about repairing ATV's so I took it to a repair shop who quoted me $150 to change the seals. The guy calls back a couple hours later and says it's going to be $450 because it's more difficult on a Polaris than he recalled and he's going to replace bearings while he has everything open.
Two days later (today) I get a call saying the counterbalace is rusted out from the water pump seals leaking coolant and water into it and just replacing the seals won't work, it won't seal properly. I'm told the counterbalance is about $500 and the entire job is $1350. (water pump seals, counterbalance and "bearings"). I'm frustrated because I know cars pretty well but I'm at a loss with ATV's. The machine is apart at the shop and I'm trying to research, but if anyone can give me advice I would really appreciate it.
Thanks.

 

I've seen this happen many times at the shop on the 350 and 400 if the w/p seals are neglected. The coolant can damage the counter balancer bearings and gears,cause over engine over heating, piston/cylinder damage among other things. Expensive if a shop does this with new parts and labor! There is one place online that can repair the counter balancer shaft and even install the main bearing less than a new one would cost. Plus this engine is labor intensive whether a shop does it or the owner. I know you feel responsible,BUT the owner was aware of the leaking before you borrowed it also! This price quoted would be inline with a complete top to bottom rebuild,but not just for the counter balancer and w/p rebuild!The owner if he plans to keep this machine could get a manual and rebuild it himself to save $.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-ATV-400-350L-counter-balance-shaft-water-pump-REPAIR-balancer-/300941567648?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461183e6a0&vxp=mtr Plus w/p seals bearing and gaskets..http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1997&fveh=5441
Plus would need the "third" case gasket along with seals.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1997&fveh=5441

Plus you or the owner can explore other options. This guy is not too far from me and fairly reasonable on his work. http://www.polarisatvrepair.com/rebuild_services.php

 

Thanks for the reply. I contacted the owner already and he was aware of some sort of coolant and fuel leak (I fixed the fuel leak- it was a bad shutoff valve).

I asked the repair shop about sending the counterbalance to a shop rather than spending $500 on a new one and he said it would not be any less expensive- thank you for posting the ebay rebuild link- that sounds like a good option and considerably less expensive.

The guy told me that I'm already into him for $300 in labor just to give the machine back to me in pieces. That sounds like a lot- 4.5 hours of labor to just take it apart. I know it's not easy, but I think I'm getting hosed.

 

So based on the seals, gaskets, and bearing you listed for me (thank you!), I'm looking at $60 in parts plus shipping (or $88.28 from local dealer), whatever counterbalance option I go with, and fluids.
I need to find out what he was charging for the parts- I would guess double.
I knew there was a reason I learned to work on my cars.

 

Sometimes better to cut your losses,pay the guy off and get the machine away from places like this. You can come out ahead by using the manual on the counter balancer /water pump seal repair.Good advice at the bottom of the Ebay ad on counter balancer repair on water pump seals installation.
"IMPORTANT TIPS: When you reassemble the water pump, insure that the seals are separated (installed back-to-back, springs out) and that the leak-off hole is open between them. DO NOT use RTV on the gasket as this will ooze into the leak-off passage and block it. Also, DO NOT tighten the water pump housing studs until AFTER you have installed and tightened the outer case - this lets the pump housing "float" into proper alignment..... Some engines are missing the timing "dot" on the crankshaft gear - it should be on the tooth directly above the keyway." Sounds like he's worked on a few of these too..

 

I talked with the owner and he doesn't want to spend this much money on repairs; the good news is he said if I want to fix it, I can keep it. Now I need to try to find a repair manual and see if putting this back together is reasonable for me to do since it looks like it would save me a couple hundred dollars- provided I can do it properly the first time

 

Here's a free pdf service manual.Look at chapter 3 on engine repair.Index of /ORV Manuals/Polaris/1996-1998 - All Models

 

I decided I didn't have the time or space to dedicate to doing this job myself. I ended up having the counterbalance, pump seals, gaskets, drive belt, temp sensor, and crank bearings replaced. I also replace the two low beam headlamps so I can see where I'm going.
She runs great now, but I do have to look at adjusting the rear brake and some other maintenance items, but it's good to have it back- minus the smell- but this runs circles around the Bayou 400 that I used before both when they were new and currently.

 

If the rear pads are ok but the pedal goes to the floorboard,just loosen the 7/16" lock nut on the rear brake caliper and turn in the adjusting bolt. The pedal will move upwards,stop when it has about 1/2" clearance from the bottom of the pedal to the floor board. Then push the atv to make sure the rear pads aren't dragging.Item #20,21.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Thanks OPT, I'll be taking care of that soon- most of the time I use the hand brake it wants to let the plastic "notch" fall into place partially engaging the parking brake, which is annonying, but having all 4 wheels braking at once is a nice feature. I'll try lubing the handbrake and see if it helps.