Ok, got the powertrain up to snuff.

Went to work on the brakes. All of the pads were down to the metal, sometimes even past the metal!

First, left front caliper. I had to remove it from the atv as I could not get the piston to compress far enough to get the new pads in. When I went to reinstall, I obviously had air in the lines. I went to loosen the bleed valve, and it snapped off flush with the caliper. Needless to say I can't properly bleed my brakes and I have NO brakes now. I have some pressure at the lever, but it will not activate the brakes.

So..

How can I remove the broken bleed valve?
Is there any other way to bleed the system without using the bleed valve? Keep in mind that this is a beast, she ain't pretty, and I don't want to put a ton of money in it!


On to the rear. I was able to remove the pins relatively easy. However, once again I can not get the piston to push in enough to get new pads in. And squeezing my squishy handlebar lever won't move it back out.

Argh, I need some brake help!!

 

You can bleed from the brake lines running into the caliper you mostly need someone applying pressure on the lever and one slacken the brake line just enough to where you see air bubbles come out re-tighten and repeat the process until no more bubbles and straight fluid runs out then tighten....now with the broken bleed screw depending on how bad it is you possibly could get it extracted by a special tool.and seems you have a stuck piston in your caliper.

 

If you can't get the broken bleed screw out,a cheap Mity Vac hand pump brake bleeder can save you a lot of time and trouble. Hook it to the rear caliper bleed screw,have some one keep the vacuum pressure up while you keep the master cylinder filled or even better with the air operated vacuum bleeders. Makes it a one man job.Brake Fluid Bleeder

 

Both bleeder valves broke off. I am going to repair them both with bleeder repair kits and see how that goes.

Argh, this thing keeps fighting me. Obviously it had a lot of neglect.

The rear caliper is a hot mess. The piston is jammed rock solid. I'll have to get the fronts working for now and mess with the rear later.

 

Sounds like it was really taken care of by the previous owner..

 

Ok, so I got this atv running well. Now the brakes are killing me. I had to repair the bleeder valve on all three calipers as they all broke off. Argh.

I had a heck of a time getting the pistons to go back into the caliper so I actually took them out. There was definately some nasty fluid in their, but everything looked ok from a corrosion or wear standpoint. I took some 1500 grit and lightly cleaned up the pistons. The seals looked to be in good shape. So I put everything back together (and now the pistons would collapse no problem). I bled the system the best I could.

But now the two front brakes don't want to release very easily. The left front is the worst culprit. When the brakes are released, the wheel is still relatively locked. It will free a little after the atv rolls for a while, but not great. Needless to say, my front rotors/pads got very very hot when I took it for a ride. They were ticking when I shut everything down, smokin hot!

Why are they not going back? The rear seems to be ok.

Thanks

 

Replace the caliper seals,plus make sure the caliper slides have plenty of grease.Probably have dirt and grit in the calipers. Possibly even the pistons also as the chrome finish has to be smooth and you don't use sand paper no matter how fine!Any time I took a caliper apart,it got a new piston/seal kit. Hated having to do a job twice! Item #8 is the complete piston/seal kit. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse