Axle/ball joint replacement
#1
Axle/ball joint replacement
02 scram 500 4x4
As stated i need to replace them. I broke a axle yoke and the ball joint maybe worn havent checked yet. I prob will pull the frt strut off to do the joint. My ques is do i need the special tool for joint can i use a lg socket to pull it out and how do u install it with a hammer and something that will go over joint? I assume the spring is under pressure and how do i compress it to iinstall it? Finally when i take off axle nut will the hub slide off?
If im missing anything let me know. I do have the repair manuel. Im sure im missing something as far as doing both and what should i look out for. Thnx for any info you can give me. Should i do both sides even if they are good.
As stated i need to replace them. I broke a axle yoke and the ball joint maybe worn havent checked yet. I prob will pull the frt strut off to do the joint. My ques is do i need the special tool for joint can i use a lg socket to pull it out and how do u install it with a hammer and something that will go over joint? I assume the spring is under pressure and how do i compress it to iinstall it? Finally when i take off axle nut will the hub slide off?
If im missing anything let me know. I do have the repair manuel. Im sure im missing something as far as doing both and what should i look out for. Thnx for any info you can give me. Should i do both sides even if they are good.
#2
Some people have heated up the strut area and used a grease gun to force the ball joint out. Never tried this way myself.This guy's got a good idea for home made tools on removing the ball point ,BUT would work a lot faster if you heated up the strut a little and used an impact. No use turning a wrench when you don't have to.
Plus to compress the spring just use a large pair of vice grips with a thick piece of rubber, shop towel,etc to keep from marring the shaft and turn the vice grips which ramp up the spring and compress it down enough to remove/install the spring retainer cap and nut. No need for spring compressors,tie downs,etc.
#4
#5
I use 2 large combination wrenches and stack the box ends together ( I think 2 3/8 is what I use) then put a big washer over it and crank it out with the nut. It's a PITA holding everything in place until there is tension on it, but it's what's hanging on the wall, so it's what I use.
#7
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#8
#10
Hub seal and strut seal are to hold fluid in. Rotor has to be removed from the hub,knock out the old seal,new hub seal must be pressed in or you'll damage it.Don't drive the strut seal in too far or it will leak. Mark around the existing seal face,pull the seal out and seat the new one to this point.Easier if you have a bearing/race installer kit to seat this seal or you can use a large socket.When everything is assembled back,torque the hub nut to 10-12 foot pounds. On a dry hub I always filled at 12 o'clock position through the fill plug several times to allow fluid to reach the back bearing then turned to 3 or 4'oclock to drain excess fluid. A little extra fluid won't hurt.Just look at your manual.