Spam word I can't get my trailblazer 250 to idle i did everything clean the carb and everything. I did everything I could think of and still can't get it to idle. I can only get it to run with the choke out .
Need some help

 

Main jet,pilot jet clean,float level set? Best to install a cheap carb kit from ebay when you pull a carb off just to eliminate the carb as the problem rather than just cleaning one. Plus do a compression check. Must be around 115/120 psi for it to run right.If compression is low,could be your problem.Even if compression is ok a leaking crank seal,intake manifold,head or base gasket can cause it to run lean requiring additional fuel from the choke circuit to keep it running.This is where a leak down test helps. Here's a good article on air leaks and testing.ABOUT AIR LEAKS - The engine you Plus several videos on you tube on this.

 

I did a compression test and I only got about 80 psi so I got a leak some where. What's the best method to do find where its leaking from?

 

Compression test has to do mainly with condition of the top end. Pull the head and cylinder,check for obvious seized places on the piston and cylinder.Piston may simply be worn out. Have the cylinder measured and order a new oversize piston kit and gaskets and have it bored to size to size. Wiseco preferably on piston kits. Stock bore is 72mm. Here's an example of a Wiseco first over(72.50 mm) you may need larger,just depends on cylinder. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Polaris-TRAIL-BLAZER-250-72-50MM-Piston-Top-End-Gasket-Kit-1985-2005-/141543650398?hash=item20f4a8b45e&vxp=mtr

 

I watch that video you posted and i notice that I did not seal off the engine with a plug and the carb with a plug when doing the compression test. Would that make a difference if i didn't because can escape threw

 

The video is just a leak down test.. Completely different than doing a compression test! You don't plug the intake and exhaust on a compression test. Just pull the plug,insert the test hose into the plug hole,hook up the gauge and crank the engine over. 80 psi compression is low and just tests the condition of the piston and rings which sound like they need to be replaced. A leak down is just low pressure introduced into the crank case and mainly to check for any air leaks that could show places that could be sucking air,such as head or base gaskets,crank seals or the engine case itself.A leak down test is usually done if the engine isn't running right.. If you have a new top end installed you are already installing a new base and head gasket along with the new piston and rings..

 

Alright what size do you think the stock head is so I can know witch size piston to get? I want to go ahead and order it so i can just take it off and rebuild it and not have to wait for parts to come.

Do you think just the top end rebuild kit,what you had posted is all i need to get it back running? Because it was running Great before.

 

Pull the head and cylinder,take the cylinder to a dealer or machine shop and have it measured for wear.Again the stock bore is 72 mm(2.835) First over Wiseco is 72.50 (.020 over) which should take care of any egg shape or scoring,but best to have it measured first as it may have already have an oversize piston in it if you're not the original owner. Get a cost on boring and honing from a local dealer, machine shop,etc. Plus always check for ANY up and down play on the rod and any noise from the crank bearings as you roll the rod around after you remove the old piston.If the bottom end is worn,no use in just doing a top end only!

 

Alright I will take it off and get it measured out. Do i have to get it bored out if there is not scoring or anything? I am the original owner so i know everything on it is stock because I got it from the Polaris dealer (new).

How much does a bottom end rebuild kit cost? I will check the bottom end when i remove the head and piston as like you said too see if it has any play in it or the bearings.

 

Rarely have seen one that hasn't had enough wear that you could stick a stock piston back in! Don't make this mistake like a lot of people have done.Do it right.. Side to side play is acceptable on the rod at the crank shaft,ANY up and down play isn't.. Hold the rod firmly close to the bottom and gently pull up and down. If any play is felt,the engine has to be split. 3 new crank bearings,rod kit will be needed along with shop labor on installing the new rod,lower bearing,washers and pin along with truing the crank shaft.Every shop has their price on this. Just check around,plus cheaper if you can split the cases,have the parts and let a machine shop do it,then reinstall yourself.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-250-300-Connecting-Rod-Kit-Trail-Blazer-Boss-/380724551337?hash=item58a4f39ea9&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-98-Polaris-Trail-Blazer-250-Crank-Crankshaft-Bearings-And-Seals-Kit-ALL-*****-/281653045745?hash=item4193d469f1&vxp=mtr Plus one more crank bearing needed that the kit doesn't show.3 bearings in all. Top and bottom can be expensive,but you can cut costs if you can do the labor of putting it back together..Hopefully it just needs a top end only.