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a few 2013 500 ho questions?

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Old 04-22-2015, 02:00 PM
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Default a few 2013 500 ho questions?

Hello, I've replaced the a rear cv shaft on a 2013 sportsman 500 and am wondering what the proper torque spec is on the hub nut and the various suspension components. Also has anyone developed a really annoying front brake chatter on these machines. Both my father and I's have developed this. I remedied mine by taking apart and cleaning the caliper and pads along with a little brake lube on the slides. Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:35 PM
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Front hub nut 60 pounds,rear hub nuts 80 pounds. A lot of torque specs on other parts if you want to go by the manual.Lubing slides can help with chatter plus occasionally adjusting pad pressure can stop it also. Have the wheel off,caliper has a 5/16" set screw towards the front inside. Rotate the rotor slowly by hand as you tighten the set screw.This puts pressure on the caliper slide,moving the main stopping pad forward and aligns the pad to the rotor a little better. When you feel a slight resistance/drag on the rotor,back the set screw off 1/8 turn. Should help on the pad noise as they wear.Item #7 on the parts break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
 
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:48 PM
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Are you talking about the castle nut #10? My manual says 14lb/inch but I have the locking hub set up not the locking diff.


 
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Old 04-22-2015, 05:52 PM
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2013 model has the centalized awd. Just has the big bearing,hub and rotor.
 
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Front hub nut 60 pounds,rear hub nuts 80 pounds. A lot of torque specs on other parts if you want to go by the manual.Lubing slides can help with chatter plus occasionally adjusting pad pressure can stop it also. Have the wheel off,caliper has a 5/16" set screw towards the front inside. Rotate the rotor slowly by hand as you tighten the set screw.This puts pressure on the caliper slide,moving the main stopping pad forward and aligns the pad to the rotor a little better. When you feel a slight resistance/drag on the rotor,back the set screw off 1/8 turn. Should help on the pad noise as they wear.Item #7 on the parts break down. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
Thanks a bunch! I kind of figured it was about that judgeing by how hard it was to get off. I'm also trying to figure out how to get that tiny ring out in order to take apart the end of the old shaft to replace the boot? I was counting on an actual snap ring.
 
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:25 PM
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Old style cv joints/plunging joints just had a c clip that held it to the shaft. You could just hit the joints with a brass or dead blow hammer to knock the cv joint off to replace boots. Newer style has a circlip that has to spread apart. Here's a good video on this.
 
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:32 PM
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I actually already watched that video and that clip would be easy. The 2013 shaft has no such clip, just one thats dang near impossible to get out.
 
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Old 04-23-2015, 12:40 PM
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You still have the easy one on the 2013 model. Just a c clip mounted on the shaft. Just knock the cv joint off. Replace the boot,align the splines on the cv joint and shaft and knock back on. Use a block of wood or a dead blow hammer.Item #8 are the c clips.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
 
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