Thanks for the details Johnny…

Just checked and the drip is barely still there, nothing on the floor yet ( after a 1 hour ride Friday) but a drip is starting to form. So will be looking at ebay and sourcing the parts you mention. Questions on cracking the tanks, do you use a paper gasket or just gasket seal from a tube, and any idea of torque specs on the tank bolts?

Thanks again guys

Brian

 

If you crack the tank open,just get a replacement gasket made for it. From the factory they're installed dry(at least on the one I tore apart) If mine I'd still run a small bead of 1194 Three bond,yama bond or something similar.Tank bolts around 10 pounds torque. Item #3.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

The short answer on torque... I wouldn't exceed 4 to 5 ft-lb lubed with anti-seize and I would use anti-seize on them.
The long answer...
The perimeter bolts are called "Vibration-Resistant Serrated Flange Head Cap Screws " I believe they are M6x1mm x not sure how long... at a guess 12mm or 16mm length... Measure one. You can get 50 of these Property Class 8.8 M6 flange head bolts, with the anti-vibration serrations on the underside of the flange, from McMaster Carr for around $5... so don't bother with buying them for $3 each from Polaris. http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-head-fl...screws/=xbjwmk
Google torque specs if you don't have them. All you need is the bolt diameter TPI or TPMM and Property Class or SAE Grade. https://www.google.com/search?q=M6+b...+spec&ie=UTF-8
The table in the first hit says that... Torque specs for M6 Property Class 8.8 is 92 in lb DRY 69 in lb LUBED. That's 7 ft lb DRY and 5 ft lb Lubed... Imperial fasteners laminated wall hanger in my shop and my Machinists Handbook seem to agree on the dry torque.

Gasket etc...
The Polaris gasket part # is the first on the list. It's a thick paper gasket and it seals very well. I would use the Polaris gasket with Hi-Tack spray on just one side to keep it from moving around on you. I WOULD NOT USE RTV EVER... You don't want RTV in the oil pump or oil passages in the block. It's not worth the risk to save $13 and it's not needed with the quality paper gaskets I've gotten from Polaris IMHO.
As I stated in the other thread the vent fitting has been brittle and shatters easily on every alloy tank I have had in my hands and the rubber vibration grommets on the alloy tank are usually completely hammered. I just re-use the steel washers, steel sleeves, bolts, nuts, and maybe the rubber isolators from the poly tank. If the poly tank isolators are hammered too then the part # is below.
The Dipstick O ring is a crapshoot. Sometimes they are OK and other times they are missing or bloated with oil. Don't buy a tank missing the dipstick unless it's bloody cheap.
I just replace the return tube and banjo assembly. The collar was welded to the original return fitting on all but one of the tanks I have bought and the steel line is usually fairly rusty.
You can check with the usual online suspects for Polaris OEM parts on prices.

McMaster Carr has 14mm copper crush washers in a 10 pack for @$12.

Reconditioning parts list;

Q, PART# - Description
1, 5830053 - Polaris GASKET,OIL RESERVOIR
1, 7052163 - Polaris FITTING,OIL RESERVOIR VENT,NYLON
4, 7555896 - Polaris CRUSH WASHER,COPPER, 14MM BANJO (Or McMaster Carr 10 pack)
1, 5850135 - Polaris CRUSH WASHER,PLASTIC, OIL DRAIN
1, 2530020 - Polaris FITTING SCREEN-OIL FILTER INTAKE,BANJO
2, 5410828 - Polaris GROMMET,MOUNTING
1, 5410889 - Polaris O-RING,DIPSTICK
1, 7052109 - Polaris TUBE,BANJO,RETURN

 

I didn't mention but it's important...
If the screen fitting from your alloy tank has a hose barb fitting you'll need a 14mm banjo bolt for the new screen fitting.
You can get them from the outfit that sells the 1/2in hose barb to 14mm banjo fitting. They sell 14mm copper crush washers too... If you're getting the fittings from them it'll limit the number of different places you pay shipping.