2008 sportsman 500 HO (carb)
#1
2008 sportsman 500 HO (carb)
Finally got my parts in (after 2 weeks)
Now onto my next problem....
Battery light is flashing
Remember this is the one that the bendix flew apart.. chunks in the stator.
What I've done so far.
Checked voltage when running with a multi meter.. 12.2 at Idle 12.5-12.7 revved up (4000rpm)
Unplugged AC wires and checked ac voltage across the 3 yellow wires
1/3 10v ac at idle.. 18v ac at 4000 rpm
2/3 18v ac at idle 45v ac at 4000
1/2 15v ac at idle 44v ac at 4000
did an ohms check .4 ohms on all 3
My best guess is that the stator is toast.
I've pulled it right off the bike and there is no visible burn marks or breaks in the windings.
Is it safe to assume I should order a stator and my problem will be solved??
This thing is starting to nickle and dime me!!!!
On another note, When i rebuilt the clutches, the buttons on the secondary were wore right down to the aluminum on the sheave. This can't be normal for a bike that has 2000 miles on it!
I've completly gone through and rebuilt and replaced everything in both clutches.. buttons..weights.. pivot bolts... helix.. springs (clutch kit)
Had the primary recut and new bushings installed.
The new buttons (OEM Polaris off white) are a little different than the old ones.. more meat of the driven side of the button. Almost like a hump. |I hope this is their solution to this problem. Aftermarket |(black ones|) are the same on both sides of the buttons.. Don't look like I trust them!
Maybe OPT can shed some light on this, Or anyone else that has been down this road.
Thanks in advance
Now onto my next problem....
Battery light is flashing
Remember this is the one that the bendix flew apart.. chunks in the stator.
What I've done so far.
Checked voltage when running with a multi meter.. 12.2 at Idle 12.5-12.7 revved up (4000rpm)
Unplugged AC wires and checked ac voltage across the 3 yellow wires
1/3 10v ac at idle.. 18v ac at 4000 rpm
2/3 18v ac at idle 45v ac at 4000
1/2 15v ac at idle 44v ac at 4000
did an ohms check .4 ohms on all 3
My best guess is that the stator is toast.
I've pulled it right off the bike and there is no visible burn marks or breaks in the windings.
Is it safe to assume I should order a stator and my problem will be solved??
This thing is starting to nickle and dime me!!!!
On another note, When i rebuilt the clutches, the buttons on the secondary were wore right down to the aluminum on the sheave. This can't be normal for a bike that has 2000 miles on it!
I've completly gone through and rebuilt and replaced everything in both clutches.. buttons..weights.. pivot bolts... helix.. springs (clutch kit)
Had the primary recut and new bushings installed.
The new buttons (OEM Polaris off white) are a little different than the old ones.. more meat of the driven side of the button. Almost like a hump. |I hope this is their solution to this problem. Aftermarket |(black ones|) are the same on both sides of the buttons.. Don't look like I trust them!
Maybe OPT can shed some light on this, Or anyone else that has been down this road.
Thanks in advance
#2
Looks like the charge coil in the stator is toast after the bendix exploded. I'd replace the stator.This was a common problem when this happened or when the flywheel magnets flew off on the older models trashing stators. Plenty of cheap ones from Caltric on ebay and amazon,but I don't know where to trust one or not.. We've ordered stators from Ricks before and never really had a problem,but they are higher. The choice is yours.http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-560/MDhQb2xTUE9SVFNNQU41MDBITzR4NA== Yes the newer ramp buttons are white,replacing the older black ones. They were improved and I started using the white ones years ago. PS this was the last year on using a the ecm before going back to a regulator/rectifier.I'd be sure on the stator yellow wires. Should be some small resistance between each other with no yellow shorting to ground.. The manual should give you some input on checking the ecm,but don't expect too much. Could be a crap shoot on this one.Plus not a bad idea on physically checking the ecm for any melting like this one.
Last edited by old polaris tech; 11-20-2015 at 03:43 PM. Reason: ecm module..
#3
I ordered one from caltric. I've used them before with good luck.
Since I'm in Canada, I'll have to wait until i get it to try anything.
So for now I'll just go over everything else on this bike and make sure nothing else is going to be a surprise.
Were there any know issues with this year and model that I should look for?
Thanks OPT you are the man!!
Since I'm in Canada, I'll have to wait until i get it to try anything.
So for now I'll just go over everything else on this bike and make sure nothing else is going to be a surprise.
Were there any know issues with this year and model that I should look for?
Thanks OPT you are the man!!
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