I started my differential rebuild and curious if there is any helpful advice on this or maybe a rebuild link or manual for this out there.

I have it torn down into 3 parts now and just wanted to make sure I was tapping the bearings out the right way, etc.. before I started using a hammer and large sockets on it.

The prop input is easy since the seal goes in one way and the bearing is pressed on the input shaft.

Question on the two side pieces.
I'm guessing the the left side should be hammered outward?
The right side will have to be hammered inward to remove the ring gear and bearing?

Or am I wrong on the directions.

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Also, does anyone know a the size or cross p/n of the thrust needle bearings. these should be a few bucks at an auto store, places online for the polaris p/n are asking around $15..

 

Plenty of videos on this on youtube. See if this one on a Razr helps.

 

previous owner didn't take care of this.. ZERO oil in it.. and the seals where bad so some water got in there.. a little rusty on the inside.. All bearings are shot, sloppy and should be called rock bearings now.. I'll just have to hit it a little to break the rust up to break the bearings loose..

 

Water was the worst enemy on differentials. Plus lack of maintenance make it even worse. I've torn some apart that weren't even good enough to use for spare parts.Less hassle and fuss on some to just bite the bullet and get a new diff. Hope you can save this one.

 

I've got all the internal replacement parts and seals. the gears are not worn, just a little rusty. hopefully a light media blast will do the trick on it..
The cage was completely busted up, but have a new one and rollers as well.
Are the Ring, Retaining 3233934 needed
this one didn't have them. and I've looked at the cage and the Ring gear and I haven't seen a place for them.
Kinda hard to see where they mount on the parts breakdown sheets.

 

Here is what I'm working with..
I'll post rebuild pics during.

Most of the crap on the Ring is dirt and old grease, actually wipes off, but still has a light coat of surface rust.

 

Nasty but I've seen worse.. Changes took place even as the parts lists were made on front diffs. If the roller cage didn't have the retaining rings,don't see why the new cage would need them. Plus I hope you're installing a new aluminum cage or at least a sturdier one from a JD that some have used.

 

yeah, I got the upgraded Black cage. hopefully it will last.

 

I finally find the time to finish the rebuild. I got everything put back together and seemed to work fine on the bench. I even powered the until and it locked in like it should and the input would drive the output shafts. removed power and the input wouldn't turn the outputs.
Now, I put the diff on the machine and it seems to work a little different now.
I can free spin the left wheel forward or reverse and it doesn't turn the input shaft. But if I turn the right wheel.. it will free spin in reverse but forward will turn the input shaft. no power to the diff. so it shouldn't be locked.
just curious if this is a normal effect when hand rotating. don't think it would be an issue since back and front wheels should be rotating at the same during normal conditions and wouldn't cause a friction issue.

 

Normal if you have it up in the air. I've had some do the same thing until you had them back on the ground under normal conditions. The system is fooled up in the air. I just used this method to check if awd was kicking in or not. Also may take a little driving for everything to mesh together properly.