scrambler bogg
#1
ok so i got my engine rebuild dealt with no more anti freeze spraying out of over flow ..... but i still have that bogg/misfire issue .. it idles fine if u dont touch the throttle if i hit the throttle quick it kinda like cuts out and aas soon as i let off it keeps going it dose the same thing in drive i have had this problem since i got the atv kinda seems to be getting worse over time when i first got the atv it only did it about 40 mins into riding now it dose it all the time ... what could be causing this ? dirty carb fuel pump ?
im realling hoping not a cam shaft problem maby valvles ? i dident do the rebuild my freinds dad did it hes done plenty of atvs... but dident look at the cam or valves and me well im useless pretty much lol
im realling hoping not a cam shaft problem maby valvles ? i dident do the rebuild my freinds dad did it hes done plenty of atvs... but dident look at the cam or valves and me well im useless pretty much lol
#2
You can pull the fuel line off the carb and crank the engine over. If the fuel pump is ok you'll have a steady or pulsing stream of fuel. Just eliminate one thing at a time. Pull the carb,pull the jets make sure everything is open and clean. Also colder weather usually causes leaner running conditions because of colder intake air. You might drop the slide needle eclip one position(richer) and see if it helps on the initial bogging. If it's worse go the other way.Look over this fuel section on the manual. Will help on the parts involved,float setting,jetting for temp and altitude,etc. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA Plus don't know if I've mentioned to you to pull the black wire from the limiter module. They can short out causing problems like this also.Item #29.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...2000&fveh=5498
#3
You can pull the fuel line off the carb and crank the engine over. If the fuel pump is ok you'll have a steady or pulsing stream of fuel. Just eliminate one thing at a time. Pull the carb,pull the jets make sure everything is open and clean. Also colder weather usually causes leaner running conditions because of colder intake air. You might drop the slide needle eclip one position(richer) and see if it helps on the initial bogging. If it's worse go the other way.Look over this fuel section on the manual. Will help on the parts involved,float setting,jetting for temp and altitude,etc. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...U2gGlaHJWSIlbA Plus don't know if I've mentioned to you to pull the black wire from the limiter module. They can short out causing problems like this also.Item #29.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse
ok so i made a video you can kinda tell in the video when it cuts out when im reving it kinda pauses then catches itself BUT today its not doing it lol of course when i take a video it barely cuts out lol .. usally its ALOT worse like you might not evan think there is a bogg lol .. anyway the real problem with this though is when im driving about 15-30 mins into a ride it will start bogging/cutting and somtimes while its bogging while driving ill try to make it fight through the bogg and then it will start popping so then i gotta feather iit home.....
and also is there anyway to post pics on here ? i was looking for the limiter thing and theres no black wire that i can see anywere i found 2 black boxes one is couler coded with nuts over the wires and the other kinda lookks like my rectifier but it only has a brown and white wire .. a red wire .. and a yellow wire.. unless the brown and white wire is actually black but has faded from heat i dont know lol can you please let me know how i can post a picture ?
#4
Man... Other than hearing the drive clutch spider clacking,hard to tell. You might need to see if the clutch is grooved where the guide buttons ride. New buttons may or may not help on this. The popping back is what I'd be concerned with. Usually a sign of a worn cam exhaust lobe. If you're not familiar with the top end let someone else look at it. At their worst they will just idle and wont take any throttle at all,just pop back through the carb. Here's what one members cam on a Scrambler looked like. Bad Cam Pic - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community
#5
Man... Other than hearing the drive clutch spider clacking,hard to tell. You might need to see if the clutch is grooved where the guide buttons ride. New buttons may or may not help on this. The popping back is what I'd be concerned with. Usually a sign of a worn cam exhaust lobe. If you're not familiar with the top end let someone else look at it. At their worst they will just idle and wont take any throttle at all,just pop back through the carb. Here's what one members cam on a Scrambler looked like. Bad Cam Pic - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community
ok good info im just going to do what you said and take it 1 step at a time the cam going bad scares me lol i live in canada and its like 300 plus for a cam ..any way im going to start with the limiter wire you were talking about .. is it that black square shaped box ? and if so you said the black wire but i couldent see one on mine and the wires connected to it are all lik double connecters .. ? can you give me a little more info just dont wanna start taking apart wires and mess things up lol
#6
Have to look close on some of the older modules as the wiring can fade over time. Should be a black wire with a small white stripe and a solid black wire. Just disconnect the black wire and the module is defeated. Look at this picture of the one listed for your machine.Polaris 4010195 Limiter RPM Hub Ground Scrambler Magnum 500 | eBay
#7
ok so i found the black wire it was coverd in dirt so i took it out it dident fix the cutting out issue .. but it did how ever fix my stalling isssue when i put the atv in revers i hated having to use the overide button cuz then it made it hard to pull the break lever ...... is there anywaay i can inspect the camshaft without taring the engine apart ? can i just pop the valve cover and look or is it not that simple... ?
just dont wanna start messing with the carb and all that stuff
just dont wanna start messing with the carb and all that stuff
Trending Topics
#8
Just pop the valve cover and bump the engine over. Visually check the cam lobe for wear or any scoring. Glad defeating the limiter helped at least on reverse. This is where they would hit first when limiters were faulty,then some would cause limiting in forward range.
#9
Just pop the valve cover and bump the engine over. Visually check the cam lobe for wear or any scoring. Glad defeating the limiter helped at least on reverse. This is where they would hit first when limiters were faulty,then some would cause limiting in forward range.
ya when i got the atv buddy ssaid the atv just had to warm up first lol ill admit i got prettty ripped off when i bought it .. i only paid 950 for it though... any ways i will do what you said tommorw and let you know what i see .. also started the atv this morning and im pretty sure when its bogging its poping and cutting out through the exaust


