Saw the video?? What's the problem,seems to run good.. Other than a worn or broken top rubber motor mount causing a lot of vibration..

 

It only starts with the clutch taken off lol

 

Then somethings binding up. Install the clutches and belt and see if it starts. If it does,then could be a melted outer cover hitting the drive clutch and causing it to lock up.. Plus with the engine mount vibrating like it is,the clutch will move around inside the cover also. Could be hitting it? Covers were bad on early models on melting and warping and hitting the drive clutch,but the 99 cover should be past that and have the updated cover.

 

Update!! A YEAR later, I have done the following and this bike still does not run!

Top-end rebuild
New CDI
New plug
New carb
New throttle and cable
2 New starters
2 New Bendix's
2 New batteries
New Solenoid

I will attempt to keep this brief.. I now have no power beyond the solenoid. Battery POS going to solenoid obviously has power (via test light) but when turning the key to ON and moving the kill switch to ON I get no lights, and no power. When pushing the start button and using the test light at the solenoid I only get power to the battery post.

Using a screwdriver, I jumped battery post to starter post and the starter spins (though not fast enough to spin the bendix.. hope i dont require a 3rd starter/bendix combo!!!)

Using a screwdriver I jumped battery post to small ignition post on solenoid and the starter spins.

When not jumping wires, I get nothing. No click, no light, nothing. Where do I start looking for electrical gremlins if there is no electric running through the wires? Thank you!

 

Start at the beginning,the battery. You may have a new one,but it can still fail under a load test.Read this.https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/ho...ry-is-bad.html Plus check the main circuit breaker in the sealed pouch located up from the battery. They can corrode in the pouch and work intermittently and trip.Slice the pouch open and check for corrosion. You can get this 20 amp breaker at any auto supply if needed.Plus a left control switch can cause problems like this also. Spray electrical cleaner in the cracks and work the switches back and forth.I had to replace quite a few of these over the years also.

 

Thank you OPT. I had read about the circuit breaker but I wanted to get further direction before hacking away at the pouch. I suppose I will just buy a new one this afternoon and change the circuit breaker while I am in there.

also I have read that the spring in the left switch (kill switch) has a tendency of getting stuck. Do you have any guidance on removing the left hand grip and switch box?

lastly I am going to change the ignition switch today. As I stated earlier in this thread my trailblazer was owned previously by an older Polaris technician and he had already replaced the OEM ignition switch with a lawnmower switch. In doing so he had ran two ignition wires and one battery wire. I imagine somewhere along the line he deleted some other wires such as a kill feature but it is hard to follow.

 

Easy to get the grip off by using an air nozzle under the lip of the grip to loosen it and you can pull it off. As far as the left control switch most people don't have good luck tearing them apart. Springs can fly out along with the brass plates and small ball bearing.Be prepared to replace it if this happens.

 

In this video I have add a:

New circuit breaker
New ignition switch
Cleaned left kill switch electric connections and internal components

In the video the wind will begin blowing hard and block out my voice.. The test light on the "acc" of the circuit breaker is operational until the "kill switch" is placed into the ON position at which point you can see the "acc" post dim and lose all power. Any thoughts?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EGeOaoFBG8I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Video 2: Clicking from circuit breaker

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NuQcDijpkCM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

check voltage at an idle to see if the regulator is putting out 14+ volts back to the battery. Load test the battery also. If these two items check out,sounds like a short in the wiring of the left control switch or the switch itself. Again had a lot of problems on this switch over the years.