New Kill switch

So, now we have new battery, new solenoid, new circuit breaker, new ignition, new kill switch, new starter, new bendix... I am getting power from:

Battery> solenoid
solenoid> circuit breaker
circuit breaker > Ignition and kill switch (starter switch)
Kill switch (starter switch) > solenoid (small red wire)

From there, I would imagine that when pushing the start button and power runs back to the solenoid, that the solenoid would transfer power to the starter cable and turn the engine.. however, it does not provide power to the large starter wire. (All tests conducted using test light)

 

Do you have power to the small wire on the solenoid when you press the starter button?

 

Yes, the small wire has power at the solenoid when pressing the starter switch, but does not transfer over to the starter cable.. it just stops there.

 

Then you either have a screwed up new solenoid,a connection problem or not enough voltage from the battery to trigger the solenoid.Also for grins and giggles make sure the solenoid bolts and bracket have a good solid ground to the back of the battery box,scuff up the area if you have to.

 

there is no ground on the solenoid nor any " extra" bolts to place a ground. The solenoid I replaced di not have a ground either, which led me to believe it was not necessary. Where would I place one?

 

Just a test to see if it makes a difference as yes some of the older models had a ground wire also to ground them to the air box,but later models evolved from that.Still think if the battery is good(load tested and holds between 9.5 to 10 volts under a load) and you're getting a full 12 volts to the small solenoid trigger wire,cables are secure and you can jump the solenoid and it starts,but it won't transfer power to the starter post,then it has to be a faulty solenoid. Hard to pass up those 5 and 6 buck solenoids,but I'm leery on a lot of aftermarket electronics now. Plus forgot to ask does the solenoid even click when you hit the start button?Another test would be to jump a hot wire just to the small solenoid wire bypassing the switch wire and see if it works. Possible to have a weak or a problem from the switch wire itself leading to the solenoid. Just a thought.

 

Thank you for all your help OPT!!

I removed the solenoid, and used a scouring brush on my drill to clean all bolts and connections as well as the contact point on the battery box in which the solenoid bolts on to. I am getting fire now! For the first time in a year, I am getting fire!

On to the next problem, the starter is engaging, however, the bendix sounds like a bunch of loose screws rattling around. It will occasionally engage the flywheel but very rarely and will only turn the engine over once or twice. This is a new top-end, a new starter, and a new bendix (NEW as of 6-7 months ago, but have never actually been used as the bike wouldn't start).

EDIT:
At this point, I have placed a battery charger on the 4wheeler and run it at 300amps when trying to start it. I have not conducted a load test on the battery, but I imagine it is getting plenty of juice and it definitely sounds as if the bendix should be engaging.

 

Kinda though that on the solenoid as I've had a couple do the same thing if the bolts aren't grounded good enough.Everything has to have a ground. Pull the recoil and check the bushings in the recoil cover and case that the bendix rides in for any galling or chips. Spin out the bendix and use some PB Blaster,WD40,etc and work it back and forth as much as you can. Also the rattling can be the guts in the recoil. Easy on the charging. Charge the battery over night and load test it at any auto supply.Doesn't matter if it's new or old,batteries can go south at any time. Don't remember if I posted this already. If I haven't take a look.Very good info on batteries.https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/ho...ry-is-bad.html

 

I got time this afternoon to remove the recoil cover and take a look at the started drive and flywheel. Everything seems to be operational as it should. Flywheel, while a bit rusty in coloration, rotates without any grinding or extra wiggle. Bendix still looks brand new (as I was hoping it would lol) and seems to open easily. The front spring is still very responsive as well. I did notice while playing with the bendix that the teeth does not ALWAYS line up with the flywheel. Furthermore, when I turn the two to make them line up, it seems as if the teeth on the bendix are almost too large to fit. Is there a "proper" way to check alinement?

 

No proper way to tell on this as the teeth on the flywheel ring gear wear down a little over the years plus these starter bendixes may vary from one place to another. Some we got from Polaris were made in Mexico,Argentina and Taiwan.Early ones(1988 or so) were in Fugi wrapping and from Japan. As long as the bushings in the recoil and engine case are ok and the bendix is new,shouldn't have a problem with it.