No lights or electric start on Trailboss 250
#1
Hi guys,
I have a trail boss 250 (1987)
I bought it as a project, it needed new rings, gaskets and Pistons. I redid that and now I have no lights or any signals. The battery is good, the selenoid is new.
When I read the voltage going into the selenoid it is 12volts +\-, coming out of the selenoid is nothing... Any ideas is much apretiated I need this thing running again!!
I have a trail boss 250 (1987)
I bought it as a project, it needed new rings, gaskets and Pistons. I redid that and now I have no lights or any signals. The battery is good, the selenoid is new.
When I read the voltage going into the selenoid it is 12volts +\-, coming out of the selenoid is nothing... Any ideas is much apretiated I need this thing running again!!
#2
Voltage won't jump the solenoid posts to the starter until the key is on,starter button is pushed. If no power is going to the dash,lights,etc then you won't have power from the ignition switch to the solenoid trigger wire to begin with(catch 22). Usually the problem is a faulty thermal circuit breaker not allowing power past the battery and solenoid. It's located in a sealed pouch up from the battery on the frame. Usually tucked under the rear fender area. Cut the pouch open and replace the breaker if there isn't power on both sides of the red wires leading in and out of the pouch. Some can just get weak over time and trip,others can corrode in the pouch. You can get this 20 amp breaker at any auto supply. Here's an example of a new one and a couple corroded ones.
#6
Then you only solved half the problem..
Keep digging more as you could possibly have a short in the left control switch or wiring leading down the handle bars behind the headlight area.This was a common area on shorts also.Plus the left switch can cut power to the ignition,control panel lights and headlights as it gets power first past the circuit breaker.You can spray some electrical cleaner in the cracks and crevices and work the on/off emergency switch back and fort and see if it helps. Plus you can use a meter or test light to see if the ignition switch is getting power or not. Another area is the terminal board. Check the wiring on it and the terminals for any corrosion. Plus make sure the battery negative cable has a good ground on the engine and the engine top motor mount bracket has the engine to frame ground strap. If you narrow it down to a faulty control switch used ones are on ebay. Not sure if you could even find a new one for an 87 model.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Head...=mtr#vi-ilComp Ignition switches can short out also. If this is the problem,the part # is NLA. Possible to use a generic one from ebay.http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-KEY...ZT08UU&vxp=mtr
Keep digging more as you could possibly have a short in the left control switch or wiring leading down the handle bars behind the headlight area.This was a common area on shorts also.Plus the left switch can cut power to the ignition,control panel lights and headlights as it gets power first past the circuit breaker.You can spray some electrical cleaner in the cracks and crevices and work the on/off emergency switch back and fort and see if it helps. Plus you can use a meter or test light to see if the ignition switch is getting power or not. Another area is the terminal board. Check the wiring on it and the terminals for any corrosion. Plus make sure the battery negative cable has a good ground on the engine and the engine top motor mount bracket has the engine to frame ground strap. If you narrow it down to a faulty control switch used ones are on ebay. Not sure if you could even find a new one for an 87 model.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Head...=mtr#vi-ilComp Ignition switches can short out also. If this is the problem,the part # is NLA. Possible to use a generic one from ebay.http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-KEY...ZT08UU&vxp=mtr
Last edited by old polaris tech; Jun 18, 2016 at 03:49 PM. Reason: ignition switch
#7
voltage won't jump the solenoid posts to the starter until the key is on,starter button is pushed. If no power is going to the dash,lights,etc then you won't have power from the ignition switch to the solenoid trigger wire to begin with(catch 22). Usually the problem is a faulty thermal circuit breaker not allowing power past the battery and solenoid. It's located in a sealed pouch up from the battery on the frame. Usually tucked under the rear fender area. Cut the pouch open and replace the breaker if there isn't power on both sides of the red wires leading in and out of the pouch. Some can just get weak over time and trip,others can corrode in the pouch. You can get this 20 amp breaker at any auto supply. Here's an example of a new one and a couple corroded ones.
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