Stator resistance specs:
Black/red to Brown/White 120 ohms
Yellow/Red to Yellow .3 ohms
White to brown 0 ohms
White to Ground 0 ohms

Coil check:
Primary .3 ohms
Secondary 6300 ohms(with plug cap)

If these check out and no shorts or other problems found then look for a cdi module. Plus you mentioned that you thought it had a weak spark>pull the plug cap and check the bare wire against the cylinder. Could be as simple as as a bad or cracked resistor plug cap? Plus pull the recoil and check for dirt and trash around the face of the pick up coil and flywheel area. Any of these can cause weak spark along with a faulty stator or cdi.

 

With OPT around who needs a manual!!

 

well i went ahead today and tore into her and what i found was that the i have bad compression i got at the most was 25 and that was with the carb off and with my hand over the boot it just didnt feel like it had enough suction like when it pulls your hand in and creates that vacuum. so i really dont know what the heck im going to do with this headache i guess the only thing left to do is a piston and ring replacement. now heres my question for opt (or anybody who knows) can i get by with just replacing the piston or do i need to bore out my cylinder to the next biggest size,i didnt get a chance to take apart the cylinder so i dont know what the conditions are in there yet.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
RUBEN

 

Bummer. Some times two strokes give you no warning,sometimes they do by the "marbles in a tin can" noise,meaning it's past time for a top end. Tear it down and see what all's damaged. Plus check out the lower rod bearing and crank bearings for any rough feeling or noise as you turn the crank around by hand.New rod kit,crank bearings and seals if needed.DON'T try to skimp by in honing a cylinder and sticking in a stock piston or the same size that was in it.. Bore it and hone to the next over size that will clean damaged cylinder walls and that will allow a new piston to cylinder clearance of no more than .002.

 

gosh u see i knew it i really didnt want to have to hone it out oh well guess it looks like i have no choice but to do so.thanks opt i will check the rod but im hoping the rod is ok especially since i bought it brand new back in 2012and put it in last time i replaced the piston. hey OPT my host dad said something to me about maybe the piston having a hole is this possible, i mean i bought a wiseco piston and always kept my mix ratio rich and always used oem spark plugs,
THANKS AGAIN
RUBEN

 

With a two stroke anythings possible. I've had piston intake sides seized up from lack of lubrication,exhaust sides seized up from excessive heat and air leaks,some seized all the way around,some that had holes in pistons that looked like they were shot with a 22.. If this is the case when this happens it can either be heat related or an ignition related problem that can cause this.

 

no but my engine still turns over thats what so puzzling about the whole thing. And iif i continue to turn her over with the choke on she will even back fire from the excess fuel.
RUBEN

 

A broken ring,a partially seized piston,a hole in a piston and an engine can still turn over and possibly try to crank but with 25 psi it ain't going to. Just for grins and giggles check the crank seal on the drive clutch in case it may be damaged or popped out even though it shouldn't interfere with top end compression that much to the extreme of showing 25 psi.

 

okay thanks OPT

 

You'll know what's going on once you pop the jug...no point guessing now...but to loose compression that fast there is something not good going on...Hopefully it's a stuck ring, broken rings may force a case split...