well OPT all that noise is coming from the rod the only time that the piston made noises was when i dropped it in the very beginning. But at the 30-35 mark that is all noises coming from the rod.I will take off the piston tomorrow and redo a video.also what is the difference between the lower bearing and the upper bearing
THANKS
RUBEN

 

The difference is a lot of work if a DIY type or a lot of money if not. If the lower bearing is caput then you'll need to split the cases to get the crank out...then have the crank split to put a new lower rod bearing on. I'd highly recommend a competent machine/performance shop handle the crank work...OPT can walk you through the case split...at least give you some tips & tricks...

 

yeah no im well aware of how to split the case as i did that way back when i put in this brand new crankshaft. i just didnt know the difference between the lower bearing and the upper bearing but after researching it bit last night i think i figured it out. the reason why i was so pondered with this topic was because my host dad said to me there should be screws that hold on the rod, but after researching last night that is more for cars and such not atv's or at least not my atv.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

Only Polaris engines with rod caps are the 325 and 330 engines. On the rest the crank pin has to be pushed out and a new rod,bearing, washers,crank pin and then true the crank up. Not a lot of fun.

 

okay so im in the process of putting my atv back together right and im stuck a little bit, u see which way does the collar go on it is number eleven in the image is it with the flush end toward or away from the engine u see it has a tapered end ( if that what u wanna call it) also and im not 100 on which way it should go.
THANKS IN ADVANCE
RUBEN

 

It's ben a long time for me since I tore into my scrambler...from the pic it looks like any "tapered" end would be facing in...just going by the diagram mind you...

 

Tapered end against the o-ring on the crank shaft. This is just to slow down any seeping back and forth through the seal.

 

okay thanks guys thats what i needed to know, it has been like 5 years since i tore this far into her, for some reason i thought the o ring went on the outside until i noticed there were 2 o rings and after looking at the diagram.now just one more quick question(at least for now) is it okay that the bearings have a bunch of rust on them because i took the engine out like 2-3 weeks ago and started to take off the outer half of the crankase u know where the stator and flywheel goes and didnt quite get to take it all the way apart but i did loosen it enough to get all the antifreeze out but in letting it sit for so long the most outer bearing of where the stator goes is like seized up from all of the rust. will this break loose when i get it all put together and run it a little bit. also is there some sort of tool out there to help take off and install seals/bearings.
THANKS
RUBEN

 

Use a period or comma every now and then.. Plus several ways to remove surface rust from the bearings.8 Ways to Remove Rust from Metal - wikiHow Plus you can get cheap bearing and seal tools everywhere.One of the best tool sets you can have around.Great deal on Lisle 12600 at ToolTopia.com

 

okay thanks opt. so u dont think that its shot then the bearing that is.it is just froze up due to the rust thats on it then. okay and one more question. lol so the engine balancer the bearing that sits on the very outside u know where the water pump and stuff go now does that bearing have to sit flush inside of its race or what. because i got the crank put in the new one that is and closed the case up but it seems as if that bearing came out just a bit but i cant remember if it was flush or not.
thanks again
RUBEN