I have check spark, there is heaps there. When i first bought it, it was going okay but the father in law had to muck around with the carby so it would go in to gear then i ended up breaking my starter relay so the quad ended up sitting around in the shed for a couple of months. I replaced the carby, starter replay then the father in law tried to muck around with it so it would go but then didn't wanna start again, so i end up taken it to my local mechanics to see why it wouldn't start but they reckon it's a electrical problem.
I've been told by a couple of people that 100 PSI isn't enough compression for it to kick over. I'm just trying to see what people reckon could be the problem why it won't start anymore

 

100 psi is bare minimum,but even then some machines may crank and run until they got warm and would die. Wouldn't crank back up until the piston and cylinder cooled down so rings could seal against the cylinder walls.Then would do the same thing again. At this low a reading it's time for a new top end plus don't over look crank seals. This can be another reason why it wont crank up. The worst one to leak is the one behind the drive clutch. I'd replace them routinely anyway whenever I did engine work as cheap as they are and the problems that can happen if you don't.

 

Cheers mate. The guy i bought it off done top end rebuild so it more then likely will be crank seal. Thanks for the help

 

I'd check his work and not his word and do a good compression check if you haven't already. Plus if it does show only 100 psi with a new top end,something wasn't done right.. Hope it's got better compression than that and a simple crank seal leaking is the problem. Let us know.

 

Hey mate I'm just wondering if you would be able to send a link or something where the crank seal? Father in law reckon it's a dodgy top end rebuild but I might check the crank seal as well

 

OPT may have a better link but I found this on YouTube and it looks fairly good:

 

The seal behind the drive clutch is the main culprit on leaking,but best to replace both when you do it. Good video also but you don't have to have the slotted nut tool. Reverse threads on the nut but you can use a dull punch or chisel to break the nut loose. Use medium thread locker when you replace this nut and it wont back off like some have.Just stake the nut tight with a punch. No thread locker is applied from the factory as they thought it shouldn't back off being reverse threaded,but Fugi was wrong on this one. That is if you have the 350 engine. 250 doesn't have the slotted nut