Polaris 2004.5 Sportsman 700 EFI - No Spark
Oct 27, 2016 | 07:33 AM
#11
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Coil has the ohms resistance listed on the wiring schematic. 0.4 ohms to pins 1 and 3. All the stator has is the resistance on each yellow leg of the charge coil. 0.19 ohms between each other(Y1,Y2,Y3) and that each yellow leg should show infinity(open) when presented to ground.. Beyond that you have to have the adapter harness to hook up to Digital Wrench software to do further testing on it and the ecu. That's why they don't go into any great detail on the stator itself on efi models.. Plus they're not not to give away all their secrets in one little manual. 
After the oil seal is replaced,make sure the stator itself is cleaned with electrical contact cleaner to remove all the residue oil.
After the oil seal is replaced,make sure the stator itself is cleaned with electrical contact cleaner to remove all the residue oil.The puller I have wouldn't fit the bolt pattern on the flywheel so I'm having to borrow a puller before I proceed with the seal.
Anyone happen to know what size/thread bolts are used in the flywheel for the puller?
On a side note... For the life of me I cannot find where you say the schematic calls out the coil or the coil specs.... What page and general area are you seeing that?
Oct 27, 2016 | 08:29 AM
#12
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Oct 27, 2016 | 08:35 AM
#13
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On my 2005 manual it's shown in small print on the wiring schematic on the coil itself. You can easily over look it. The bolt size for the puller is 8mm x 1.25 pitch if I remember correctly.Here's a video of a guying pulling one from a 700 engine on a dune buggy. Must have an air impact and be careful not to damage the crank shaft end.
Oct 27, 2016 | 08:45 AM
#14
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Should be the same as I have unless it's still listed as as coil pack/cdi from the old Ducati ignition. Being that the manual is shown to be an efi model, that should have been updated also to reflect the newer Kokusan ignition.
Oct 27, 2016 | 12:47 PM
#15
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Good news... found the source of the oil leak.... Ok, not good news at all... it is NOT the seal. The inner stator cover is cracked just below the crankshaft flange/seal...
Now... the interesting part... My local polaris dealer pulled the history of this atv and on 3/22/2005 the unit had a warranty claim for Crankshaft - Excessive Run Out.
So... I can buy another inner stator cover (or whatever this part is called) and replace it... but will it just crack another one?
I guess the damage/crack could have been done before the warranty repair... but is there anyway to tell if the crankshaft runout was actually fixed? Or if it has returned?
I know this is a long shot, but any chance this could be considered under the original warranty work as not completed, and actually still be covered?
Now... the interesting part... My local polaris dealer pulled the history of this atv and on 3/22/2005 the unit had a warranty claim for Crankshaft - Excessive Run Out.
So... I can buy another inner stator cover (or whatever this part is called) and replace it... but will it just crack another one?
I guess the damage/crack could have been done before the warranty repair... but is there anyway to tell if the crankshaft runout was actually fixed? Or if it has returned?
I know this is a long shot, but any chance this could be considered under the original warranty work as not completed, and actually still be covered?
Oct 27, 2016 | 01:13 PM
#16
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Being that the machine is almost 12 years old now wouldn't think that there would be a chance of getting this case replaced. Like you said entirely possible this was a result of the first issue and either over looked or cracked later. First one I've seen crack like this but anything's possible and you can see that it was caused by the crank pressure or slap again the bearing support. As rare as this happening(if they replaced the crank) you could take a chance on a good clean used one on ebay. 1202384 Polaris | eBay Or spring for a new one for 140-160 bucks. As far as any run out or play there should be no side to side play on the crank whatsoever. Plus too many webs to even think about trying to weld as some have done on cases before. Plus one other thing could have cracked the case and not related to any run out. These were the hardest flywheels to pull of any that Polaris had. Pressure on the case itself from the puller bolts could have done this also and just over looked when first reassembled.
Last edited by old polaris tech; Oct 27, 2016 at 01:44 PM. Reason: Pulling the flywheel
Oct 27, 2016 | 01:48 PM
#17
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Being that the machine is almost 12 years old now wouldn't think that there would be a chance of getting this case replaced. Like you said entirely possible this was a result of the first issue and either over looked or cracked later. First one I've seen crack like this but anything's possible and you can see that it was caused by the crank pressure or slap again the bearing support. As rare as this happening(if they replaced the crank) you could take a chance on a good clean used one on ebay. 1202384 Polaris | eBay Or spring for a new one for 140-160 bucks. As far as any run out or play there should be no side to side play on the crank whatsoever. Plus too many webs to even think about trying to weld as some have done on cases before.
Think I'm going to gamble on an ebay unit, this thing wasn't hard to remove so if I have to do it again in the future not a big deal.
Many thanks for your guidance through all this!
Oct 27, 2016 | 02:03 PM
#18
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May as well get a new water pump seal,small oil seal behind the w/p seal and case gasket as you'll need em. Hopefully you can get her running again. Keep us updated.
Oct 27, 2016 | 02:09 PM
#19
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Yeah, I'm trying to get all the parts together now on that site you posted. I've got the case gasket, and water pump o-ring, and stator cover o-ring in my cart, but having a helluva time finding the crank seal and the water pump/oil seal.
You happen to know the part numbers I would need? Or at least which part group it would be on?
You happen to know the part numbers I would need? Or at least which part group it would be on?
Oct 27, 2016 | 05:48 PM
#20
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Large case seal might be a tough one,but you can always try the universal size that's on it at a local parts house. Worst case is to get one from a dealer. The seal shown on the parts break down looks like the regular flanged crank seal? Can't remember off hand on this one. Here's the oil seal behind the water pump seal. Polaris Sportsman 600 700 800 Twin Water Pump Crankcase Oil Seal 5412455 5411184 | eBay