Hello all, new to the forum and new to ATV's here! Thanks to everyone who participates here, this forum has been a VERY beneficial resource so far!

Ok.... so we picked up a 2004.5 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI a few days ago from a friend. The atv was in a no-run condition and was sold as-is.

We've put a new battery in it. Installed a new igntion switch and ordered a new off/run/off switch (it was broken). I've installed the new igntion switch and overrode the off/run/off switch (temporarily only, for testing, will not ride the atv with the switch overridden, only doing this so I can continue trouble shooting while the switch is on order).

Ok... so I've currently got a no-spark condition. I've been going through the troubleshooting stuff as much as I can. I have tested the stator and double checked all grounds and connections that I could find.

Couple of things....

1. I took the stator cover off and oil poured out... I wasn't expecting that (neither was the dog lying underneath it ) I thought stators were dry, but after reading some I see that some stators are oil cooled. Anybody know if oil should be in the stator housing on this atv?

2. My coil is Bosch style (pic below). I get no continuity from any of the three pins to the secondary (where the plug wire plugs into). I have removed the coil from the unit for bench testing as access to it was cramped.

I do get continuity between the pins themselves
.6, 1.0, .6
But no continuity from the pins to the poles.




So, my questions...

1. Should there be oil in the stator housing?

2. On the coil, should I get any continuity between the pins and the plug posts?

 

No oil should be in the stator area. You've probably got a seal leaking on the third engine case. Item #1.2004 Polaris A04CH68AU/CU SPORTSMAN 700 (A04CH68AP/AQ/AU/CU) Magneto | Cycle Parts Warehouse This leaking oil itself can short out stators. Have you done the stator resistance checks from the manual? Plus the manual should be able to help on coil checks also.

 

The manual I have borrowed is for 2003, so it does not have the same color wires for me to perform the tests. If you happen to have the 2004 manual with the specs for the tests I'd be happy to run them.

I have 3 yellow wires coming off the stator. I ohm'd all three of those to each other and all three to ground. I did this test from the connector which hooks them to the voltage regulator.

I get an open circuit to ground and .3 ohms to each other.

 

Could the oil affect the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Seems like that is the only other item in that case other than the stator.

 

The 2003 Manual I have states that there should be continuity without caps 1800 min 2400 max, but I'm certain it is for a different coil....

I've never seen a coil that didn't have some continuity between the pins and the poles (not sure what the proper terms are for them...?) Was wondering if this one was different for some reason...?

 

ALL the 2002- 2004 models(600/700) had the crappy old Ducati ignitions and all of these were carb models.Completely different machines. Yours was the first 700 efi model during mid year. Here's the correct manual that can get you on the right track. And yes oil can short out the crank position sensor also and there are tests for it along with tests and trouble shooting checks for the stator,coil,etc. A lot better than throwing parts at one and worth the 5 bucks investment.2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI Service Manual PDF Download

 

Downloading the manual now, thanks for pointing me toward that!!

I'm definitely with you on not throwing money at something that may not even be the problem. I'm all for testing procedures! Will report back my findings.

 

Ok, got the manual downloaded... and do not see any procedure or specs for testing the ignition coil....

This is really the only reference I see to it (in the Ignition System Troubleshooting section): Faulty ignition coil winding (measure resistance of primary and secondary)



However it doesn't tell you what the specs are for the test.....


I do see the CPS test and will run it shortly.... any ideas on the coil test in the meantime?

 

Ok, CPS fails all tests... there is no continuity between any of the wires whether it is installed or not... It was pretty saturated with oil so I'm fairly certain it is toast.... Got a new one on order.

Any suggestions on testing the coil?

 

Coil has the ohms resistance listed on the wiring schematic. 0.4 ohms to pins 1 and 3. All the stator has is the resistance on each yellow leg of the charge coil. 0.19 ohms between each other(Y1,Y2,Y3) and that each yellow leg should show infinity(open) when presented to ground.. Beyond that you have to have the adapter harness to hook up to Digital Wrench software to do further testing on it and the ecu. That's why they don't go into any great detail on the stator itself on efi models.. Plus they're not not to give away all their secrets in one little manual. After the oil seal is replaced,make sure the stator itself is cleaned with electrical contact cleaner to remove all the residue oil.