They'd work ok on non ebs clutches for the most part,but on more complicated ebs clutches the alignment tools couldn't compensate for one way bearing fiber and metal washer wear or really even rear clutch roller or ramp button wear on ebs or non ebs clutches.The tool just measured front to rear sheath alignment only and that wasn't always absolute.After checking the one way bearing out you could tell as much or more by looking down at an angle on the rear clutch and belt and see if the belt was centered on the one way or drifting toward the inner sheath. This is where the shimming out the rear clutch,checking for worn motor mounts to get the belt back straight came into play.The tool couldn't do that for you and that's why they gathered dust in a lot of shops.

 

Any idea what was used during manufacture? I'm guessing they didn't eyeball it....

 

Yes they used the tool,but like I mentioned the tool can't compensate for worn parts that can alter clutches operation. Go to most shop where techs have been working on these for quite a while and you'll find that most don't rely on alignment tools.Even if you use the tool,shim a clutch out or in until it's perfectly aligned with the rear,clutch belts can still cause creeping or they can ride off center. The alignment tool to me was just for a reference point at the very most.It can't compensate for internal clutch parts, motor mounts that slightly soften over the years,but not bad enough to replace,etc. Your eyes can actually do a better job.

 

Opt
I'm really starting to dislike this ebs setup. Currently with atv off belt looks nicely centered in drive clutch. Turn atv on and it's not centered at idle, moveable sheave is very close to touching the belt while fixed sheave side still has nice gap. Secondary clutch is not spinning regularly but will make a slow rotation every 10 seconds or so. No creeping, shifts fine. I verified idle is at 1150 rpms. .030 shim is all that's behind secondary. Drive clutch has new brass washer and fiber washer. The front motor mount is shifted all the way towards clutch side of machine and has no more movement in the slotted hole (was that way already). I hate to charge $ and give the machine back just to have my relative tell me he's having issues in a couple months OR is this all completely normal?

 

What size feeler gauge can you stick between the end of the one way bearing? The brass washer inside the "cup" were really a joke as they wore too fast allowing the one way to move.Exchanging this brass washer for a steel one helped on this also. You can go up on the shims behind the rear clutch to help compensate. Don't know if I posted this already,but if not read it. Especially what the owner was able to do on the last post.https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...-creeping.html

 

I'll get a measurement but the brass washer is brand new, maybe 1 mile on it. I did verify that at idle the one way bearing that the belt rides on is pushed all the way towards the stationary sheave, all slop was on the moveable side. I wonder if putting a shim between the cup and spider would help?

 

Adding shims behind the driven clutch instead of taking them out allows the belt in most cases to track straighter on the drive clutch one way.If it came with two have them both in and you can add one more to help compensate. Just like the member did on the link I posted.

 

Opt
My belt is close to the moveable (outer) sheave, not the engine side of the clutch like the poster in the link. Adding shims to the secondary will make it worse.

 

Ok,then loosen the front motor mount that you've pulled all the way forward to the clutch side and let it align itself with a couple throttle revs. This may be one problem area as most belts would walk to the inner sheath. Plus take a pry bar on the rear engine mounts and check for any excess movement. I've had to replace those also that had split in half. Plus again you are running an oem belt and not an aftermarket belt I hope?

 

Ill check the rear mounts, didn't think of that. If I loosen the front mount and it moves away from the clutch side it will make the belt even closer to the outer sheave (mount has no more movement towards the clutch side).

When I start the engine should the moveable sheave close a little? Like I said, engine off = perfectly centered, once engine is started the moveable sheave closes a little = loosing my gap on the movable sheave side of the belt.