Dad has a 2000 or 2001 Sportsman 500 with the combination kill switch and START-PUSH-UP button. The start button is less than reliable and the Kill switch section is dying too so it was an adventure to start it.

This is a spare machine so spending $160 for one of these switches is unacceptable.

I replaced the handlebar switch with the used switch leftover from converting my 2012 to the international handlebar switch. This switch mated with the existing plugs with no changes and all functions worked. $0.00
If you have to buy it new it's about half what the original switch costs. You can probably find this switch used in decent shape too.


I'm still going to need a START switch that's not a butcher job...
So I says to meself... What about using a $54.00 2002 Key switch?

The 2000-2001 two position key switch has 4 terminals. OFF-ON (No spring loaded start position)

The Polaris 4012164 three position 2002-13 key switch has 6 terminals. OFF-ON-START(springs back to ON)


The ignition key switches use an unsealed Delphi Metripack 280 plug and terminals that are very cheap. Delphi PN Six Positon Plug 12092254-B with two Terminals PN 12034046-L. I have the terminals in my goodies already and Mouser stocks the plug.

You'll need around 4 ft of SXL jacketed 18ga automotive wire, 2 terminals, and one plug. I would suggest buying at least 10 terminals... $0.29 US each from Mouser Electronics ain't going to break the bank.

The key switch terminal positions are labeled A-D (4 term) or A-F (6 term)

2001
A & B are ON
C & D are OFF

2002
A & B are START
C & D are ON
E & F are OFF

Extract the terminals and move each wire from the four position plug to the six position plug one at a time;
4 --> 6
A --> C
B --> D
C --> E
D --> F

The wires for the starter solenoid in the new six terminal plug positions A & B will need to be brandy new. Properly strip and terminate one end of your new start wires with the new Metripack terminals and insert the colors you want in A & B of the new six position plug.

Position A on the six position plug attaches to the WHITE wire with RED stripe that runs down to the starter solenoid. It's off the old handlebar switch in position C of the plug furthest away from the rider.

Position B attaches to any ignition power wire... RED wire with WHITE stripe.

I used White with a Red stripe attached to the WHITE/RED START wire and Orange with a Red stripe attached to the RED/WHITE power because I could add the tracer stripe colors with a sharpie. Use whatever wire colors you want...
I highly recommend using Cross-link Polyethylene jacketed Automotive wire (SXL, TXL, or GXL). You can use PVC jacketed automotive wire but it doesn't stay flexible and lets more moisture through. Whatever you do don't use lamp cord or speaker wire.

I spliced the wires together using size 16 Deutsch DT terminals and adhesive lined marine heatshrink.

This looks and works as if it came from the factory setup this way.

Get the wiring diagrams for your machine and verify everything before you begin...

 

Wiring detail for both switches clipped from Polaris wiring diagrams.

LH side is the 2002 and later switches with START using the KEY. The 2012 wiring diagrams show the same internal switch details.
RH side is the 2001 and prior switches with START on the handlebar switch.

Notice the 2002 handlebar switch has no connections or switches between F on the bottom plug and C on the top plug. These are the start switch on the 2001 & prior switch that are being moved to the keyswitch.

Click the image to expand.

 

That's an interesting way to solve the problem with an updated switch. I don't think I would have been able to figure it out.

 

I work on Rail & rubber tire transit vehicle electronics for a living and antique vehicles for fun. Polaris wiring diagrams are much easier to follow than NOVA, Gillig, New Flyer, MCI, NABI, Siemens, Hyundai, Bombardier, Kawasaki, and Eldorado National diagrams. Don't get me started on Cutaway buses.

I lucked into the Delphi Metripack part number for the six position switch plug with a quick google search. An unlucky fellow melted the plug on his RZR and posted the details for that connector. Worst case... I had already asked a nice girl that works at our harness manufacturer if she might be able to ID the connector with a picture. Before the outsourcing to China started in earnest they used to make harness sections for GM. We use them because they provide high quality American made harnesses at 99.9999% zero defect levels. She has been able to ID some Antique Delphi connectors and terminals with just a super high res macro mode close up picture. She agreed with the guy in the RZR forum...

Wiring diagrams are in the Polaris service manuals. From there it was fairly easy.

 

I had a Scrambler before that had the old lift to start kill switch on it. I thought it worked well. I don't really see an advantage to replacing it with the newer style start button other than personal preference. Think about it, its 15 years old. I think that's a pretty good run for any part on an atv.

 

15 years is a pretty decent run. The handlebar switch on the 2001 was whipped right out with just under 1500 hours of runtime.
The standard kill switches on both of our 2002 Pro Series ATV mules are still working Quite well despite the markings being worn almost completely off. They have thousands more hours of runtime on both than that '01.

We all agreed it's a PITA to remember that that one is the oddball that has START on the handlebar. It looks the same as the other two at first glance. The KILL/START switch failure was the excuse I needed to move it to the key.
Partially preference on my and my dads' part and partially the fact that I had a spare handlebar switch and the ability to figure out how.

 

Good job and pics in updating the old push up control switch.The harness outsourcing to China just gives people a warm and fuzzy feeling when you buy a new vehicle,just how long will it hold up. Just like the sensor wires on the Polaris efi models. Thin and brittle and about the size of telephone wires. Only an electrical engineer like yourself would have gone to this effort to make a change over like you did. Most people,including myself would have done what greg74 did and just ante up for an exact replacement and be done with it Here's another place that has a good selection of connectors I've referred people to when they just need a connector or two and didn't want to fork over several hundred bucks for a complete harness.Motorcycle Connectors

 

In the last 2,500 harnesses I had 1 harness with a very very minor defect. I'll stay with American made. I'll leave China to the Walmart purchasing dept. Too expensive to go to China and ride them the way you need to to get a quality product.

I can't believe it when I see 1960's tech PVC jacketed 22ga wire being used in some new vehicles. Five years is optimistic for some of these wires especially when they're exposed to heat and cold cycles. Crosslink Poly isn't exactly new... it's well over 40 years since GM started using that little innovation.
Current isn't the only reason to use larger gauge wire. Resistance to mechanical wear is just as valid. If the connector to wire section is not fully overmolded and bonded to the connector 22ga is not heavy enough to last.

Thanks for the thumbs up.